Authority to the Airgunning World

2010-01-19T12:20:00.000-08:00

Since this topic was banned on the yellow (The very reason this blog was created), I might as well continue it here. This guy is selling a Whiscombe model 70 in the classifieds:

Bend-me-over Whiscombe pricing

He does a good job hyping up this rifle, just like Beeman did in his catalogs. Just might borrow his copy in my Whiscombe ad (JW 80 S/N 001) for 10K if he is successful.

For some reason beyond my intellect, these types of rifles have an aura about them that commands outrageous pricing. I have two, and don't think they are that big of a deal.

With all the buzz with these rifles, maybe I should start worshiping the people who own them. I should be patting myself on the back for being in such an exclusive club.

2010-01-11T09:53:00.000-08:00

Before you worship that tuner/guy you bought an airgun from think twice:

Semi-skilled labor market

Four out of the 25 worst jobs for 2010 fall under an airgun tuner.

24. Machine tool operators start at $22,000 and top out at $50,000
23. Drill press operators start at $21,000 and top out at $48,000
19. Machinists start at $22,000 and top out at $55,000
14. Sheet metal workers start at $24,000 and top out at $74,000

I never could understand why they are regarded in the highest on the forums.

2010-01-07T09:37:00.000-08:00

Proof that it isn't the gun:

MAC1 smackdown

Tim shot with a USFT, and still couldn't outshoot a majority of the piston class. I remember he failed miserably at the worlds as well. Don't bother me with excuses either. Hard to push your products if you can't use them. Now we know he doesn't QA them guns before they go out. Someone has to shoot strait for that to happen.

2009-09-15T12:30:00.001-07:00

I never thought it would come to this, but now we have yellow forum dating services!

Russ Best is available

I'm a little confused about the thread header. Isn't this the guy who has tons of negative feedback on the yellow BOI? If you were a master tuner it wouldn't take three years to tune and return a gun.

Anyway, back to the action:

Male seeking Male

Russ's turn-ons:

1. Someone nice to talk to
2. Same age bracket as me (80+)
3. Fisting

Turn-offs:

1. Sober
2. Dress well
3. Running a legitimate business

Motto: "Don't drop your keys"!

2009-09-09T10:51:00.000-07:00

If you want to really bewilder airgunners you pull this out of your ass:

target="_blank">Jerry rigging a Gamo

Pros:

1. Easy to cock.
2. Cheap platform.
3. High velocity numbers.

Cons:

1. Upgrade costs more than rifle.
2. Cheap fit and finish.
3. Have to basically rebuild gun.

I love how he uses the lightest pellets to show high chrony #'s. How are the groups at 50 yards? I'd be surprised if they hit a paper target the size of a square foot . You won't hear from this guy again.

2009-09-01T12:27:00.001-07:00

Every person has milestones while going though life. Examples are:

1. Graduate from college.
2. Getting married.
2. First child.
4. Ugliest t-shirt in the universe

We have come to that milestone where the wearer of the shirt is more important than all the previous milestones put together. To pull this off takes ingenuity and many years of hard work.

I thought the white trash trucker shirts were the worst, but this one takes the cake. Guess which t-shirt won? You guessed it, the one right in the middle.

I also recommend bathing at least once a week, and washing clothes once a month. Not sure if wearer of the ugliest shirt in the universe adheres to this schedule.

I can only imagine how bad the dialogue would be as some poor fool asked about it.

Link to full story: Simple Simon Plug

2008-10-28T16:19:00.000-07:00

My first groupie! It's not the kind I wanted, but at least I have another fan in my stable. Picture of Dante provided by email:

Apparently, he can't get enough of the truth I speak. You can find it here:

Airguninferno

I must say I'm touched since he thoroughly enjoys my blog. This in turn motivates me to think of more inspiring threads for curious minds. Thank you for all the support. All I can say is keep up the good work and spread my URL far and wide! Your bestest friend - sonnysan

2008-10-21T10:50:00.000-07:00

European dominance prevails again in the FT arena. No silly USFT's with giant sidewheels here.

Normal folk with normal gear

Just common PCP's with good shooters. For some crazy reason, the Americans think their equipment will do the work for them. Well think again people. People who are in shape and disciplined show their superiority year after year in these FT events. Timmy Mac and his cronies once again got their asses kicked so hard that there was minimal mention of the FT worlds on the American message boards. You can't expect to be a champion by being fat, lazy, and stupid. Being short and having ego problems doesn't help your odds either.

2008-06-25T11:54:00.000-07:00

Why do I continually talk about MAC1? Because Timmy Mac is a complete dork. Check out his latest free advertising campaign:

Now you know why Pyramid Air is better

I love the photo of the FT winner. It's from 2005. Don't mention the percentage of wins the USFT has won matches. That's not cool or good business.

Innovation? I bet FWB is following his lead too.

Please give this up. You're a mom and pop shop. The products reflect this. You're not fooling anybody but yourself. Pyramid ships more product than your two knock-offs in one week than you have in your entire life!

2008-06-20T10:07:00.000-07:00

The death of mom and pop airgunner vendors is quickly approaching. These and other concerns are voiced directly from the airgunning prophet himself, Timmy mac.

Pyramid Air is putting a squeeze on my one-man operation Here is a quick overview in regards to economies of scale:

As you can see, building one or two USFT's per week isn't going to cut it these days (Right side of curve). However, I'd imagine tig welding off-the-shelf parts would provide great margins on such a product.
As for the LD pistol, you go to Wal-Mart and purchase a Crosman MKI, put on a barrel/trigger mod, and resell it. Obviously, there is not much profit since you are trying to re-sell a successful product.
Solution? Get into a new line of work or work for someone else. You can only jury rig existing products for so long. Work for Beeman or Crosman to get those health benefits. At Timmy Mac's age those benefits are probably costing him 1.5k/month - the true reason why he can't get ahead.

2008-05-20T13:15:00.000-07:00

Why do I continue to talk about the USFT? It defies normal decency, that's why. Here is the latest acquisition from victim #49.

OMFG!

When these things are put together, does anyone stop and say that the colors don't match? Let's list the current installment:

1. Black
2. Blue
3. Silver
4. Turquoise - gross
5. Brown
6. Charcoal

I left off a couple colors, but you see my point. I mean it already looks awful, but have some dignity and make it match so other people don't have to look at it.

2008-01-02T23:33:00.000-08:00

What is world coming to? Must be desperate times for some:

For Sale: Beeman Logo trigger fob. These were attached to the trigger guard. Make offer. Asking $?. Contact Tom Reinbolt via EMAIL or call 330-882-4586. (ad# 8101 submitted on 01/02/08 at 11:22:22)

I think this guy is popular on the boards too. More importantly, make him an offer? Does he think people are going to be throwing money through the telephone receiver at him for this piece of junk? Need I say anymore?

2007-11-24T09:22:00.000-08:00

Why wait for the .20 venom HW-97, when you can get the review now? As always, Jerry D.'s packages are the most antisipated ones to open, and this was no exception. Mike A. stock, and venomized parts throughout. Scope is elite 4-12x on BKL 260 (non-droop) mount. Initially the gun came with Beeman 5040 mounts with stainless steel screws, but that setup was crap. BTW, don't use SS screws for mounts. They will snap in half around 45 inch pounds! Anyway, Groups were shot with CP's (die #2) at 25 yards, five shot groups at 12x. How does it shoot? Well, it shoots like any other springer. No twang, and I don't have chrony #s. All I can say is it's a beauitiful gun in every respect. I just don't think it's worth the $$$ since it's a HW variant. You can get many of the features standard on a Theoben for a lot less money.

2007-10-15T22:05:00.000-07:00

BB Pelletier identity leaked! You saw it here first.
You must be thinking it is one of the elite in the airgun community. Is it:

1. Larry "dipshit" Durham
2. Timmy "Larry's bitch" McMurray
3. Tom Gaylord
4. Sonnysan
5. Steve in NC

Let's go through each candidate one at a time.

Dipshit Durham: Pyramid's blog doesn't reference MAC1 enough. On top of this, Larry requested his superiority in the business must be recognized in every other post. As you can see from pyramid's blog, all kinds of guns are referenced. Therefore, he's out of the contest.

TimmyMac: Due to an overinflated ego and short man's complex, McMurray suffers the same fate as Durham. Not enough frequent free marketing nor pedestal elevation. Ass kissing is the name of the game for these two.

Tom Gaylord: Has been know to be contracted to write columns for Shotgun News and cheaper than dirt. He has been in the business for many years. Books include The R-1 supermagnum and airgun publications.

Sonnysan: Is a culimation of the other three. Loves to stir the pot, well educated, and has been know to use alter egos to cloak his identity online.

Steve in NC: Although very technical, his leadership is questionable. Will this gearhead make the cut?

B.B. Pelletier is :

You guessed it, the one and only Sonnysan is the man behind the keyboard. Suck it, airgun community! Now I need to post on the pyramid blog and discredit this place. More information will follow in future posts.

2007-10-08T19:26:00.000-07:00

What a beautiful .22 eliminator this is. Completely tricked out Mike Abernathy stock and extended brake by custombrakz. Scope is 4200 6.5-20x duplex. I had my first shooting session with it over the weekend. Problem is you can't test that many pellets without getting worn out quickly. My limit on cocking these guns is up 150 shots per session. Seems like it likes kodiaks, but I'll have to try others. Distance was 25 yards, five shot groups at 10x. This gun can do better than what is shown here.

2007-09-16T17:06:00.000-07:00

Well here is a airgun you don't see everyday; A Theoben Fenman profile in .22. I acquired it from a fine gentleman who knew what he was losing - I would be sick too! Atop is a Bushnell 3200 4-12 elite. Only pellets used so far were the JSP exact jumbo express. I'm sure it can produce better groups with other pellets with some experimentation. Distance was 25 yards, five shot groups, at 12x rested. Basically, I just wanted to post this so you can see the rare bird.

2007-07-29T15:55:00.000-07:00

Took this HW-80K out for a spin today. Scope is a Burris 4-12xR/A on a Beeman mount. Stock is a custom Mike A. design. Mag-laza glide tune with bull barrel. Jerry Dubin must be sick that he sold this!
I tried a number of pellets, but the Webley lazadomes grouped the best at 25 yards (12x - five shot groups). It's unfortunate since they are not made any longer. I tried JSB jumbos, but it's obvious they are not the same pellet. I don't think you can customized a R-1 much further than this. It's a show stopper at the range.

2007-06-18T01:18:00.000-07:00

I finally did it! I've acquired the official AAFTA profiling and suggested qualifications summary. This is a rare find people. Feast your eyes on this juicy piece of "behind-the-scenes" material:

Profiling:

1. Anglo-Saxons are encouraged to compete. Minorities can participate, but are looked down on. We've had to change our policies in recent times to appeal to a wider audience and local ordinances, but don't make this obvious.

2. It is encouraged that the competitors are of the same body type. We have discovered that obese males make the best competitors in the states. They also like to spend vast amounts on money on useless airgun gear.

3. Middle aged to elderly males and encouraged to compete. They have nothing else to live for, so let's give them something to talk about. This also drives everyone around them crazy, but the benefactors are only sticking around for their money anyway.

Suggested Qualifications to participant's handed down by the rangemaster:

1. You must have a minimum $2,500+ rig to enter. Although you probably will shoot terribly due to the gun resting on your gut, pictures taken from the match with a super expensive gun make you look serious about the sport.
2. To promote the US superiority, we encourage you to purchase a Mac-1 USFT gun. We realize the US is dead last in scoring when it comes to the world FT, but we have to focus on something positive to keep the unobtainable dream alive.
3. You will need to come up with 10 excuses why you couldn't hit the target for the day. Excuses are important since you might be interviewed by the press after the meet. After all, what is more important in life than winning the FT nationals in the US? We can't think of any. Examples such as, "The wind wasn't blowing in my favor" or "The gun didn't want to group that day" are popular choices.
So there you have it folks. The framework to build a successful, lucrative career is at your fingertips. What are you waiting for? Make the obvious choice and become something to be proud of today!

Ironically, when I was pondering that it couldn't get any worse, I see this:

FT winners need your help!

I'd like to take those $2 plaques and beat them over the head with them. Put a time limit on their game and they wouldn't know what to do with themselves.

2007-04-22T17:56:00.000-07:00

Have you always wanted to pick your blank, then send it to a stockmaker? Well look no further, as I bought this gun used off of Brad's website some time ago. Just got around to mounting the scope and mount this weekend. The previous owner bought the blank from microfit:

http://rifle-stocks.com/

Then microfit shipped the blank directly to Mike A:

http://www.customwerksairgunning.com/

Mike then shaped the stock after his latest R1 design.

Scope is a Burris 4-12 R/A with ballistic plex. BKL 260 with .007" droop mount, and a JM apex muzzlebrake. .20 JM tuned R1 with Morgan pad. Distance was 25 yards, five shot groups using Crosman Premiers. Tried FTS pellets, but they were all over the place.

2007-04-15T19:02:00.000-07:00

After many months I finally received the mounts to scope this FWB 601RT. The loading gate would not clear standard high and medium mounts. Anyway, atop this FWB are BKL mounts with a Beeman 68R scope. Distance was 25 yards, five shot groups, Nygord pellets at 11X. There were no fliers. You might see one or two in the picture. However, they were from one of the shooters on either side of me at the range. Looks like they were shooting a .22. Shooting a gun like this takes the fun out of standard sight-in targets. I put up a official 10M target at 25 yards next time to make it more interesting.

2007-03-27T21:56:00.000-07:00

Every once in a while some moron posts a ridiculous request. Whether it's an ad or new thread on an airgun forum nothing ceases to amaze me. Either way you now know why tigers eat their young. For your pleasure, he's a for sale item on Brad's classifieds:

For Sale: An unopened box of the most saught after pellet for winning Field Target Matches. Crosman Premier 10.5 grain Die #2 dated APR 14,1998 as seen in the photo. View Picture(s) Here. Asking $100 plus shipping. Contact Ray via EMAIL. (ad# 7686 submitted on 03/27/07 at 16:17:12)

There was someone that goofed on the seriousness of this ad. They were selling the foam that came in a die #2 for $4 each.

I don't know what Ray is thinking, but why would someone spend 5X the amount than buying current production pellets? Why did Crosman discontinue die #2 in the first place? I'll tell you why: Premiers are junk and everyone knows it (except the A-Team).

Let me translate the for sale ad:

What I'm trying to say is I'm attempting to gouge you to the best of my ability. I know pellets will in no way increase your chances of winning the National FT competition, let alone a friendly backyard competition. I don't even know why I take this so seriously. Maybe I'm lonely and have one foot in the grave. The money will go to a badly needed hip replacement when I fell off my rocker while thinking of this crazy idea. It's no secret that people know I'm in la-la land. Just look at us at FT competitions (stupid white monkey suite coveralls). Please help me!

2007-02-19T10:33:00.000-08:00

For those of you who want the total airgun experience, the yellow forum is the place for you. Although I love blasting Steve, I have to give credit where credit is due. He really has expanded the site, and made it better that it ever has been. The BOI saved me from one bad transaction already. I thank him for that.
Now it's time for the happy fun slander corner. Today's topic is why should you switch to the yellow. Let's pick the #2 airgun message forum: straightshooters (SS). Dumb posts abound, and here are a few:

1. Talk me out of buying a gun from straightshooters.
2. Which scope mount should I use for gun x?
3. Here are some pics of my stock guns from SS. Please hi five me.
4. SS is the best! Your shipping is awesome!

Funny thing is Kevin totally denies it's a newbie forum. Look at the posts and see for yourself. I also like his claim that it's an international forum. Duh, as any URL on the web with a www address is international.
The worst part about this forum is you can't talk about any other vendors if SS sells the same or similar item.
Perfect situation is someone asking about muzzlebrakes. Anyone who knows would refer him to mac1 or custombrakz. But since they are in competition with one SS, you can't talk about it. In the end they guy who posts will probably buy a inferior brake with SS. That's what he gets for posting on a heavy handed site.

2007-02-05T18:34:00.000-08:00

You won't believe this, but I've been appointed the super special position of airgun moderator on the yellow forum! That's right kids, please don't tell anyone. It is only between you and me. Steve is sick and tired of managing lame posts that get absolutely nowhere. He simply can't be bothered with nonsense. That's when the iron fist of sonnysan comes into play. Go ahead and blame Steve or whoever. I'm in the driver's seat now and there is nothing you can do to stop me. Do you want to know how you become an airgun moderator? Great question. Here is the questionaire you must complete for consideration:

1. Have you ever been banned from an online message board?

A. Yes
B. No

2. Do you have an open mind?

A. Yes
B. No

3. Would you be open to oral favors since I'm the forum owner, creator of the universe?

A. Yes
B. No

Note: An answer of NO will automatically disqualify you for consideration.

4. Highest grade completed:

A. Grammar school
B. Middle school (preferred)
C. High school dropout

You see, it wasn't that hard. Lie if you must. I have to be going now. I need to start deleting your posts on the yellow forum!

2007-02-01T19:58:00.000-08:00

It keeps getting better as Steve in CT digs himself more into a hole everyday. Here is some new material. No surprises here, as Steve is acting like his moronic self:

Baseless Threat #1

Baseless Threat #2

Since I know Steve isn't intelligent enough to understand what he is saying, I'll take the honors of interpreting the above posts, then draw out a letter to the FBI Cybercrime department. I'll even give him my permission to copy and paste it.

Baseless threat #1: Basically, I have no idea what I am talking about. This wiseguy named Sonnysan posted how to get around my foolproof IP banning scheme. If it wasn't for him, I would be getting away with the invincible forum admin award. Since I know he is more intelligent, I must threaten posters with my demigod status while learning from his blog. There is simply no other way around it.

Baseless threat #2: Zing, I order you to change your personality now. I am in complete control, and you will do whatever I say. Mother jokes are out of the question, as they are taken very seriously on the Internet. In almost all cases you've never met each other, let alone his/her mother. Common sense should tell you it's a felony. Yes, I'm more powerful than the president.

Letter to FBI cybercrime division:

From: SS

To: Anyone who will listen

Lately I've had a couple posters raise some serious issues on my thriving Internet message board, the yellow forum. These posters are behaving very badly. Examples are name calling, insinuating people's mothers are whores, etc. You know; terrorist threats. Other members of the board are very concerned, and want it brought to national attention. Help me please! I can count on you to keep the balance in this turbulant virtual reality.

With all my love,

Steve in CT

2007-01-31T19:34:00.000-08:00

Tired of being censored and beat-down by forum admins who don't have a clue what they are doing? Well, there is a better way! In this installment, I will show you how to trick those forum fools from ever messing with your hard earned message board access. Check out deadbeat dad by proxy:

I can't handle you kids!

Follow these easy steps:

1. Create a temporary e-mail account. Your choice: yahoo, hotmail, 10 minute mail, etc.:

http://www.10minutemail.com/

2. If you don't already have it, download the firefox browser:

http://www.mozilla.com/en-US/

3. Download and install tor:

http://tor.eff.org/

4. Create new account at network54:

http://www.network54.com/

You can now tell the forum admins to "bite me" and cause havoc on their precious, beloved forum. Enjoy!

2007-01-12T22:17:00.000-08:00

Our first hate mail! I can assure whoever does this it will be posted here. Without waisting anytime, let's get right to it:

From: SS

Re: welcome run over

You are no longer welcome on the Yellow forums. Do not post there.

Consider this an official notification from the owner.

Thank you

Steve

Oh no! The forum OWNER e-mailed me. I'm seriously freaking out right now. He went to godaddy.com, registered yellowforum.com at $6/year, and pays network54 to host the website that network54 created. This is something to be really proud of at 60.

I would love to see this guy's resume. In fact, this is my vision right now:

Steve in CT
1234 Looser Lane
Mega Ego, CT
888-bow-to-me

Job titles I've had from the last 10 years:

1. Full time - Janitor
2. Part time - Forum Owner (To counter balance the primary job)
3. Part time - Dead-beat dad

It's sad that the owner harbors criminals (Russ Best, Mike Myers), but when he's the butt of a joke, he can't take it. Something to be really proud of buddy.

I know he is just itching for me to post so he can delete it. He will never get that oppritunity, as plan B was put into the works immediately. I can't tell you the details, but it is working flawlessly! It must be driving him crazy that he can't delete or alter this blog too. Poor guy.

2007-01-08T22:22:00.000-08:00

Yellow Forum Owner is about to be given walking papers! That's right folks, read it and weep from monster.com:

High-Performance Airgun forum Administrator:

The website manager will be maintaining and providing content for our website with the goal of creating a website that is a community resource.

Duties will include managing and editing content and images, data entry of content, building website relationships, seeking website partnerships, managing basic website layouts, message board management, managing chat room applications, and act as a liaison to the corporate marketing department.

The Web Manager must be able to make a seamless communication process, and maintain an authentic airgun experience for the website.

For consideration, please e-mail: eagleaetos@yahoo.com

Apparently,

This was the last straw for upper management

However, the replys from the community at large are mixed. Check out these quotes from self-proclaimed gurus:

"I'm sick and tired of his strong-arm tactics. Either he goes or I go"! - Wanda Kitching

"I'd make love to Steve in CT if I had the oppritunity". - Carl AKA Thumper2

"Will I have another shot at buying the forum when Steve is booted"? - Tim McMurray

"He really doesn't have the maturity to run an airgun forum. Maybe he should consider running a Xbox forum first". - Ric Douglas

2006-12-24T15:54:00.000-08:00

Here it is by popular demand: Bending an airgun barrel:

The methods described so far in this post and the post a short time back are very crude and not practical as far as controlling the amount of bend imparted to the barrel. It also subjects the gun to possible damage. Cut three blocks, 2 inches square by 1 inch thick of delrin or similar hard material that will not deform when pressure is exerted on them. Use tape, masking or other to attach them to the jaws of the vise so the 1 inch side is against the barrel. You will position two on one side and the third one on the other side. You can now position the barrel in the blocks so that the applied pressure will push the barrel in the desired direction. Pressure can be applied in a gradual manner and without the requirement to remove the scope, the point of impact can be easily checked until the desired result is attained. There is not the brute force requirement as described in the other methods.

you look down the bore and check for concentric rings of light and reflection. A bright light in the bore is not how it's done. A well lit black and white pattern on a wall is what real barrel makers look at thru the bore when straightening. They look for ripples and curves in the reflected pattern inside the barrel, then bend and adjust as needed to make the reflected pattern consistent.

I ended up mounting the barrel/breech on a 2X4 and squeezing it between 2 blocks of wood with a 5 inch C-clamp. I inserted some wood shims under the length of the barrel (about 4 inches from the breech 'cause that was where the bend was evident) then compressed the breech part of the barrel with the clamp. Since the barrel was bent upwards I mounted the barrel upside down on the 2X4 and compressed the breech until it met flush with the mounting board. Did the trick. This allows more precise pressure and you can eyeball the progress you're making. I did such a good job I had to shim my scope to get the sighting in correct.

Assuming it's not in the mount or scope, the barrel and receiver could simply be out of line with each other, and I've also seen scope grooves that were clearly machined non-parallel to the receiver itself.

On many springers the barrel can be bent for re-alignment instead of using adjustables. Fixed drooper mounts are avavailable from Mac1 to take care of it without adjustable mounts, or you can carefully take your chances with the shim method.

Its not unusual to get an airgun to run out of windage/and/or elevation when using higher magnification scopes and suggest you use the B Square AA Adjustable 2 piece mounts and the risers too if you need to increase the height. (Pole risers).
If the B Square won't cure the problem, then I don't believe there is anything else that can short of replacing the receiver or bending the barrel.

For a long time 85% of guns needed 30 minutes of droop. The manufacturers AA & HW have made the barrels point another inch higher at 10 yards in the last few years.

30 minutes=30"@ 100yds
=15"@ 50yds
=10"@ 33yds
=7.5"@ 25yds
=3"@ 10yds
=1.5" @5yds
=.030" @ 4"

It seems that the 85% these days would be covered by a 20 minute drooper but the need to droop accurately is more critical when scopes with very little total adjustment are used. Elites come to mind as having about two turns up and down. Not much.
We provide beefy mounts so POI shift problems are eliminated.
If you can't sight the gun in with straight mounts or the mounts delivered, put the scope in the middle of its range of adjustment and see where the gun shoots @
10 yards. With this info we can figure out what it will take for your application if you aren't in the 85%.
Only so much droop correction can be made in the mounts (usually 50 minutes)and roughly half the droop correction can be made to the windage if needed.
On barrel break and underlever rifles it is easy enough to bend your barrel into alignment but with rigs with barrel supports and fixed barrels the best solution is to machine rather than shim. Shimming is very hard to do without stressing or denting the scopes thin tube. Whatever thickness in thousanths (.001") the material your adding adds up to, that is how many minutes of adjust you need. Most ring spreads are 4" and at that distance minutes=shim thickness or droop needed in thousanths of an inch.

More than likely you need 20 minutes of droop like all HW's. If you center the scope you'll find it hits about 2.5" low at 10 yards. It should shoot 1/2 to 3/4 low at that distance to be zeroed at 25 yards( highly advisable to zero at your apogee) so you need to put a mount on there to let the Elite use the middle of its adjusment range like the designer intended.
You can shim but you should remachine. By putting shims in the back you bow the scope tube and can dent it if you get carried away.
I make a mount that has a tie rod connecting front and back rings and a solid stop in the rear ring that sets in the guns stop hole. The mount is based on the 5040 Beeman which is a $35 set of rings. We charge $60 for the HTRD. It is available in 20, 30, 40 and 50 minutes. Thatb number of minutes roughly equals the number of thousanths of shim thickness you need. So in a 4" ring spread 20 thou shim or angle adjust(1/3rd degree)= 20 minutes = 2" at 10 yards = 20" at 100 yards.
20-30 minutes is what most springers mounting a 40 MM objective need.
When you buy quality optics the makers expect you to make the coarse adjustments and the scopes ajustments do the fine adjust. They often supplky a shim quide but the proper way to do it is to cut the droop in the rings. You can send us your 5040 rings and trade up to an HTRD for $30.

Remove the barrel complete with cocking arm and breech block. Remove the rear sight from the breech block if so equipped. Place barrel/breech unit on your workshop table with the breech block resting on its bottom side (the side the cocking arm attaches to). Swing the cocking arm forward out of the way. Place a small wooden block under the end of the barrel (beneath the front sight). Place a small wooden block on top of the breech block and one under it. I'm not sure if the HW55 has a breech opening latch or similar device that would prevent the breech block from sitting flush on the block/table, if so you may have to remove it. Take a 4 inch C-Clamp and place top (the part with the tightening screw part) of the clamp on the wooden block that sits on the top of the breech block and wedge the "bottom end" of the clamp under the edge of your workshop table. This works best if you have a protruding table ledge to slip the end of the C-Clamp under. By pressing down the wooden block that sits on the breech carefully with the C-Clamp, the end (or middle depending where you put your block under the barrel) barrel is "levered" or bent up according to the height of the block beneath the barrel and by how much pressure you apply to the C-Clamp. This is more precise than the wack with a 2X4 across a sawhorse -----just compress slowly the first time, take the unit out and measure for straightness and re-do the procedure as necessary. I had a HW30s that someone fired with breech block open and the barrel was bent upwards-this procecure (I just flipped the breech on its top edge though) worked to align the barrel. Note the procedure above is for barrel DROOP but can be used for any bend by the location of the breech -on its side or edge.

Open the action and point the muzzle towards a brightly lit area, not at a light. Hold the barrel 6 to 8" away from your eye, you should see perfect concentric circles as you look down the barrel. Turn the barrel around and look down the muzzle end, it should be the same.

If you see ovals and not circles, the barrel is bent. Rotate the barrel slightly while observing this and the ovals will retain their shape in the same spot while you rotate the barrel.

A bent barrel can often be repaired by simply bending it back to a level trajectory. Often this can be done without adversely affecting the accuracy. Several people have posted simple techniques on this forum and others.

If you want to replace the barrel, the technique is the same for the R series spring guns (the barrels and breech blocks are interchangeable from R1, r9, R10, RX, RX1, RX2 guns, while the RX guns have a different cocking linkage).

- Make sure the gun is uncocked
- Find a pair of LARGE flat head screw drivers to fit the screw and cap of the pivot bolt snugly.
- While placing a driver into the bolt on the right to hold it still, use the other driver to remove the cap from the left side. Then remove the bolt itself by counterclockwise turning of the bolt (Right side). You may find less tension on the barrel if you slightly break the barrel.
- Once this bolt is out, the barrel and breech block will freely move out of the receiver arms. Be careful to collect the thin washers that goe between the receiver arms and the breech block.
- Carefull rotate the barrel and cocking linkage downward and slide it out of the cocking shoe - if you rotate too far, you can inadvertantly damage the cocking shoe.

Reinstallation is the opposite procedure, first insert the cocking arm into the shoe, then slide into the receiver arms with the thin washers aligned with the hole (kinda tricky, a nice punch with a smoothly increasing diameter can make this a lot easier). The shims should have moly lube on them and the smooth portion of the cross bolt should also have moly, while the threads should be clean.

Then insert the bolt from the right - once again slightly breaking the barrel can decrease the pressure on the parts or you can try placing the muzzle on a piece of wood on the floor and then pressing to compress the detent so that the bolt will line up.
Place the cap end on the Left side.
Now cock the gun and adjust the tension of the cross pin. The barrel should slowly move with response to gravity. Once it is this tight, you have to hald the bolt with a screwdriver while tightening the cap on the left. Test the barrel movement again. Often takes a little tinkering, but only a few minutes.

As I mentioned earlier, the R series barrels and breach blocks will work on the RX guns, but will need a RX specific cocking arm. The cocking arm is attached by a pin and can be swapped. However, I would try to get the barrel bent back....

------------

1.Remove scope, take action out of stock.
2. take front sight off.
3. grab action near the middle of the cylinder tube with both hands like a golf club.
4. Hold barrel 10" over thick wooden table, fencerail, or sawhorse. Make sure the gun is aligned so the direction the barrel needs to be corrected is straight up and down (trigger down if gun shoots high)! A cloth towel or piece of old carpet should cover the wood to prevent marring the barrel.

5. with arms fully and stiffly outstretched and gun parallel with wooden surface, bring barrel firmly into contact with wood in a chopping motion (do NOT bend wrists, or too much force will be developed). The contact point should be between center and where the barrel enters the breechblock.
6. Determine results of straightening by sighting down the action tube and seeing of the barrel is parallel to it.

7. Repeat steps as needed until barrel is overcorrected a VERY slight amount, then tap it the other way very lightly.
8. reassemble and test. Repeat as needed. If you are reluctant to attempt
this, send gun to dealer so he can do the same thing, but more carelessly.

If the bend is as severe as you say, and a distance of at least three or four inches from the breechblock i would suggest making a jig from a section of 2"X4" wood around three feet long by drilling a hole about 6" from one end about 5/8" in diameter thru the board.

Remove the barrel from the action and take the sights off. Push the barrel thru the hole in the board so the short end is supported by the wood and the bend is right up against (and partly in the hole) with the the long end able to be used for leverage.

Place the board and barrel end so they are close to the ground and the long end of the board is up. The bent end of the barrel should be facing up as well. Using your padded palm on the end of the barrel, press slowly but firmly down while noting if the barrel is bending the way yo want (support the board of course). If it doesnt bend, press harder, even "bouncing some", and if it STILL doesnt bend, use foot pressure. Don't overdo it, just bend it til it begins to look a lot straighter, then lay it against a flat surface, even roll it, and gage your progress. Once you have it so it looks pretty straight, you can reinstall and testfire ... if it needs a bit more,

BTW, it might help is someone holds the breech end in proper position when you push down on the other end, just to make sure it doesnt rotate ... again, easy does it, those barrels on small guns arent usually very stiff.

On real stubborn bbls i have resorted to padding the barrel and slipping a piece of 1" water pipe about 3 feet long for leverage. The trick is to hold the other end of the barrel firm .... a 5 foot 2"X6" board can be used with you actually sitting on the board with barrel protruding up and breech end pinned to the ground under the board so long as you know its aligned right. You can bend any (almost) airgun barrel with this kind of leverage.

I have found the rubber mallet to be near useless for this work. I once had a BSA Mercury with a short custom Harper .25 barrel epoxied inside the std barrel as a sleeve ... it already had been "triggered off" and straightened a couple times before, making it way stiffer than original. I could NOT straighten it no matter how hard i hit, pulled, pushed, or whatever, it refused to go! Even Tim had give up on it, and its bent upward around a degree to this day! thje bend was right at the breech and i had no covenient way to hand onto that breech at the time ... even holding it in my mill vice and shoving it just moved the mill, as it wasnt bolted to the floor at the time an only weighs around 800lbs or so.

For FT: The mount is a Beeman Sportsmatch set of high split rings that have been fitted with a tie rod and drooped so the scope can be used in the middle of its adjustment range. HTRD's are currently $65. They include a threaded solid scope stop to replace the factory roll pin.
We call them High Tie Rod Droopers. They are a great way to mount high heavy optics on springers solidly, with no shims.
Most HW and AA guns need 20 minutes of droop.

http://www.mac1airgun.com/droopers.html

http://www.bushnell.com/support/manuals/riflescopes/Shim%20Guide_2.pdf

I had an R9 with a badly bent barrel, I took it to a friend of mine who is a welder/fabricator and he wrapped a towel aroud it and clamped in a vise and straighted it. I never would have believed it, but it didn't affect accuracy at all. I doubt that I could have achieved the same results, but I had seen him work wonders with metal before, and was pretty sure if it could be fixed he could do it.

Early american gunmakers typically bent barrels (straighting them) They used an arbor press. The barrel is bridged across the top of two wooden blocks spaced about 18" apart. The barrel is bridged across the blocks with its "high side" up and the arbor press is brought down (bounced) onto the barrel. A series of a dozen or so stacked thin shim spacers "under" the center of the barrel directly below the arbor press ram will limit the movement (bend) of the barrel to keep it from deflecting too far. I've done this many times. The barrel will "flex" (deflect) quite a long way before any real change (bend) takes place. Keep deflecting the high point of the barrel against the shim spacers, and remove the shims one at a time to increase the deflection until a "set" (bend) takes place. Looking down the barrel against a bright light will show when it is straight. The "eye" can determine straightness with about 2 thousands of an inch in a 24" length of barrel.

Slip a fresh cotton swab type Q'tip in and out of the crown carefully while watching with any eye loupe or magnifier of some sort. If there are BURRS, they will pull cotton fibers on the way out. The burrs are hardest to detect.
I used to try to detect it by feeling the pellet "hang" right at the muzzle as i slowly pushed it out, and this works, but Russ's trick works too, and is appreciated when its hard to push the pellets due to breech access probs.

As to the crown itself being damaged, if it looks burnished on one side or the other, or there is an obvious dent or ding, or if some rifling lands or grooves appear differant than others i would just go ahead and touch up the crown via the old brass screw and JB borepaste method i use on virtually every gun i've owned.

See, recrowning done right never hurts accuracy, and i've seen it improve accuracy when it didnt LOOK like there was anything wrong. A bad crown can act like a barrel with a bend right at the muzzle, or it can simply lead to a few extra "fliers" in your group that widen it. I know many have claimed the crown is over-emphasized, and some even claim that an uneven one does NOT cause problems, but i've crowned perhaps five hundred barrels now, and shot em after, so i've formed an opinion that it IS important, and its been reinforced many times.

2006-11-01T21:31:00.000-08:00

The infamous Timmy Mac sends distress signals out to the ever faithful airgun community:

Help me!

Help me please!

Seems like Timmy Mac is getting a dose of his own medicine. Tim is famous for "tough love" posts on airgun forums. He will get absolutely no sympathy from me due to his dreaded short man's syndrome.
Now is seems he got his way:

What a crybaby

I suppose he expects free marketing. Here's an idea buddy: Advertise your website via the yellow forum or google adwords.
Funny thing is he won't spend a dime on getting the word out. He would much rather convert already existing guns, then call them his own.
If I were Doc Beeman I'd tell him he is in, then cut him from the final submission into the book. That would put him on the backburner for another year.
I can't believe people let a-holes like this guy get away to talking to others like that. I can understand if he has money, but this guy is so broke he barely remembers his own name.

2006-10-27T00:59:00.000-07:00

You have to love how posters claim that their wares are better than new. What nerve people have:

For Sale: LD in rare style. Only four made like this with the trial venom shop shroud. Ask Tim. Very nice LD, 2 CO2 tanks, paintball CO2 tranfer adaptor, RB grips, Millet 30 mm red dot in millet rimfire rings, carry case, Better than new and very accurate. 75% of what it all cost new. 545.00. Asking $545.00. Contact Jack Flynn (ad# 9732 submitted on 10/11/06 at 10:49:55)

I remember e-mailing this same guy years ago, and asking how the gun could be better than new. His response were along the lines of (He was being defensive too), "Well, when you fondle, tweak, and give the gun tender loving care after firing...". Stop right there. If you shoot the gun it is used. I don't care how many mods you've done, kept it on a special rug, preserved the wood and blueing with secret special lubes, etc. It is simply less than 100%. Get a Gun book if values and wake up to reality. Better yet, see a psychologist.

2006-10-15T21:22:00.000-07:00

For old times sake I shot a Beeman Laser MKI this weekend. In my opinion, this is one of the nicest R-1's to come from the factory. I wonder how many were produced, as I have only seen one for sale on the Internet in the last seven years. It has an apex muzzlebrake, BKL 260 mount, and Beeman 68R 4-12x scope. Distance is 25 yards using Beeman .20 FTS pellets. Five shot groups. Power used was 10x, as this scope has whitewash above that power. Optics are comparable to a Bushnell trophy. If you like R-1's you have to try one of these. The stocks are gorgeous.

2006-10-11T18:29:00.000-07:00

Paul Bishop - What a character. I'm not making this up folks. In his signature, he shows off his credentials (If that is what you call them):

01,02,03,04,05-NY. 02,04,06-CT. 03,04,06-MA. 03-VA FT Piston Divison Champion
02,03,04 National FT Piston Divison Second place winner
03 Mid-Atlantic 03,06 NE and 05 BG100 Regional Piston Divison Champ.

First question: Who posts that they placed second? This goes for any sport.

Question two: Who is he competing against? Are the competitors "World Class" or just beginners who could afford the $10 to shoot? In fact, you can compete in the nationals if you've never shot an airgun before.

This type of behavior really makes you look retarded. Yes, the photo is of Paul (placing second no less).

2006-09-29T00:45:00.000-07:00

Was this trigger mod made for Tim & LD's Field Distillation gun? No silly, it was made for the super duper chinese guns. It's very hard to improve on their design, but Steve in NC did it!
The deal between 'ol Man DaTuna and Steve in NC seems a bit confusing. For your pleasure, here is a summary:

Steve is an endless tinkerer with crummy guns & systems. In other words, he basically tries to figure out how to make cheap junk work better for cheap. He collaborates with DaTuna who agrees to make & sell the triggers. However, Steve does not want any liability in the endeavorr other than the project paying off. Tuna gets the triggers made. Naturally he gets tired of Steve's take, and says he'll do them himself - and does so. 'Tuna Basically steals Steves design - but hey these are cheap airgun tricks: no patents,no rights, so who cares. DaTuna makes an improved version and cuts Steve out of the equation.

Then Steve spends the next three months whining & complaining endlessly about how he was robbed. Until now! That new beer-can trigger mod is his answer to Tuna. Steve claims the beer-can trigger is better than the stolen GTX item. And thus feels he has destroyed all market for Tuna's $30 complete trigger. It's all posted on the airgun boards - diagrams and all. You can grab whatever you like.

So Steve feels like he's getting even. I'm sure 'Tuna is very hurt. The drama is so tiresome. It's like opening a can of spoiled dog food every time Steve in NC posts anything. I can't wait for the next innovation that rocks the airgun world to its core.

2006-09-14T07:41:00.000-07:00

I finally it figured out why the infamous Bestunes turns out tunes for some people faster that others. Here are my findings:

The thread that gave me a moment of clarity:

Those pesky Mexicans

Recently, I received a questionnaire from bestunes before I sent my rifle to Russ. This is how it reads:

1. What do you want me to do with your rifle?

A. Increase the power.

B. Increase the smoothness.

c. It doesn't matter. You are a god and I trust you. Perform the default tune: Lube it, then
charge me $250.

2. Turnaround involves many factors. They are:

A. if I like you or not.

B. How much your worship me on the airgun message boards.

C. Complimenting me on my hairpiece when we talk on the phone.

D. If you are a border brother.

Appendix A: How long you have to wait:

1. 25% Mexican: 6 months
2. 50% Mexican: 1 year
3. 75% Mexican: 1.5 years
4. Full blooded: Your money isn't good here!

Want proof?

Bottom line:

You don't want to be a Mexican if you deal with Bestunes

2006-08-30T21:01:00.000-07:00

Installing Rifle Scopes and Mounts

Once you have determined the right scope and mount combination to mount on your gun, degrease all screws and contact points the scope and mount touch. Typically, the inside of the scope rings, mount rails, and screws. I use Beeman’s degreaser for this job. For the screws, there are other degreasers such as brakleen, carb/injector cleaner, naptha, etc. Use whatever you feel most comfortable with.

Read any directions that come with the scope mount. These instructions can answer most of your problems and concerns.

Use a white piece of paper as the backdrop, and set it upright where you want to vertically align the crosshairs of your scope. Minimum distance should be 10m. Find a nail/hook you can tie a string around. The string I prefer is fishing line hung from the ceiling with a hook purchased from Home Depot, and a fishing sinker attached to the end of the line.

If your using a standard 8.5 x 11” white paper, paint the fishing line black where the white paper and line intersect. A birchwood casey flat black touch-up pen works well. When vertically aligning the crosshairs, I found this setup easy to see.

Secure rifle in rest or gun vise. I prefer a Hughes ballistic bag filled with poly pellets so I can easily adjust for eye relief. You want your scope to rest about three inches from your eye. Take a piece of tape about two inches long. Shoulder the rifle, and place the tape across the comb of the stock under your eye. Now place your rifle on its side on your bench. Place the scope on the bench above the action, with the rear of the scope three inches from the tape. Note the location of the scope mount screw holes. If your bells or boss ride right over the screw holes, you may need an offset ring. You will not have a problem with full-sized scopes. The probem usually comes up when you put a compact scope on the rifle.

I have a gun vise, but I won’t use it because I’m not able to shoulder the rifle during the scope and mount installation process. You can purchase a ballistic bag at cabelas, http://www.cabelas.com , and purchase the poly pellets at your local Wal-Mart. Located in the crafts section, poly pellets cost approximately $2 per 2 lb. Bag, http://www.threadart.com/D/tspp2.asp You’ll need between 6-7 bags if I recall correctly.

To make sure the rings aren’t out of alignment, I use Wheeler Engineering’s 1” scope ring alignment and lapping kit:

http://www.midwayusa.com/rewriteaproduct/227261

highlights of the instructions if you don’t have the kit:

Misaligned rings cause stress on the scope tube, which can dent the tube, distort the reticle, and cause adjustment problems.
Properly aligned rings create more surface contact with the scope tube to keep scopes in place during heavy recoil.
Keep ring pairs together and do not reverse top halves on their bottom halves. Most rings are manufactured as a single piece before they are split.

Put the mount on the scope rail. Lightly tighten the mount to the receiver so it can move back and forth, but will not fall off the rails. For a great majority of my mount installations, the mount is approx 1” – 1.5” forward from the end of the receiver cap. Then finger tighten the mount screws by alternating every half turn. If you use rings with a scope stop pin like the Beeman 5030s mount, make sure that the pin isn't bottoming out in the hole on the receiver. This will prevent the mounting claw from gripping the entire groove and the ring will not mount squarely. The fix is easy, just push or drive the pin into the ring a little farther. Note: if you are using a BKL mount, you might need to widen the mount to fit in the receiver rails by removing the clamp screws and placing them into the spreader holes. This procedure will remove the bluing on the end of the screws spreading the mount. Once mount fits in the grooves, completely remove the screws and paint their ends black again. I use a Birchwood Casey flat black touch-up pen for this job. Otherwise, you’ll see alternating black and silver on the opposite end of the BKL mount. I used two coats from the Birchwood Casey flat black touch up pen to take care of this.

Put the scope in the ring saddles, and lightly tighten the screws by alternating every half turn. The scope should be just loose enough so you can move the scope back and forth with little effort.

Adjust scope for eye relief. I like to look away for a few seconds, and then shoulder the rifle. Make sure the entire picture can be seen. If you see black anywhere keep adjusting. Strive for consistency on the cheek weld. The hold must be comfortable for your style of shooting. I probably do this 10 – 20 times until I’m satisfied with the eye relief.

Once you decide on proper scope and mount relief, it’s now time to align the reticle.

The easiest tool I’ve used for aligning reticles is the Vertical Reticle Instrument by long shot products. http://www.microlevel.biz/vertical_retical_instrument.html. Follow the instructions it comes with the tool, or follow the directions on the website. They are the same directions. This tool is no gimmick; it really works.

Once you have the reticle, mount, and eye relief the way you want it, tighten down the screws on the mount, then the scope rings. Use alternating half turns. Up to this point the screws are finger tight. If necessary, use only medium (blue) locktite on the scope mount screws. Using loctite on the saddle ring screws is not necessary.

The easiest tool I’ve used to apply the correct tork tension to the screws is an Anschutz AHG inch pound tork wrench available from either:

http://www.championshooters.com/start.html

http://www.champchoice.com

Cat. # is 4506-SW4

You can purchase other inch pound tork wrenches, but I’ve never used them. This guide only uses the Anschutz inch pound tork wrench in the example.

In addition to the tork wrench, you’ll need a sears 2 7/8” magnetic bit holder to use your favorite allen head/screwdriver tips (such as b-square removable tips). You can purchase the bit holder at Sears for around $5.

In my experience with sportsmatch and BKL mounts, 55-60 inch pounds is adequate for both ring saddle and mount screws on magnum springers. I’ve taken off scopes after this tork procedure, and no scarring or scope tube compression has been witnessed. From message board readings, inch pound tork values range anywhere from 50 – 65 inch pounds. BKL recommends 25 – 35 inch pounds when using their mounts on rimfires. For magnum cartridges, up to 54 inch pounds is needed.

If you are using an anschutz inch pound tork wrench, you’ll need to convert Newton meters to inch pounds. Use an online torque conversion calculator like this one: http://www.productionproducts.com/charts_conversion.htm In my experience, tork values are between 55 - 60 inch pounds (6.22 – 6.78 Newton meters) on the wrench.

After installation, you’ll need to verify that the scope and mount do not move.

To make sure nothing moves after completing setup, use masking tape. For the mount, place a strip of masking tape in front of the mount. For the scope, place a strip of masking tape behind the front ring saddle. If anything moves, it will be towards the rear of the gun. You’ll clearly see a gap between the masking tape and ring/mount if something moves. If you ever have any doubts about scope/mount movement, this procedure will reveal if anything has moved at your next shooting session. You can also apply correction fluid (white-out) at the 12 o’clock position on the screws. Make sure to remove masking tape after your shooting session. Masking tape has been known to discolor finishes.

Various Notes:

Custom droop vendors - Mac1 and BKL direct. At the time of this writing this service is $25 above the cost of the mount:

http://www.bkltech.com

http://www.mac1airgun.com

But be prepared to replumb- scope set up *can be* a very sensitive equation if you like to shoot at random distances accross the entire range that your rifle is most competent to shoot consistently.

It will throw your zero off *minimally* if you can manage to retighten the dovetail screws on the scope mount pretty close to your previous set up. Less so if you're using a one-piece mount. Even better if you happen to own a torque wrench with an allen set and can keep the ft lb of torque near identical.

Whether it's your zero, close range, or terminal POI- something's going to change. Just be prepared to tweak.

That probably took a little time to get everything to sit just right. I've been wondering about the scope levels and people who use plumb lines or regular levels to set up their scopes. I've never used a scope on anything until I got my R9 and I just bolted the thing on and made sure the crosshairs were squared up vertical and horizontal when I look through the scope.

The gun is hitting where I put the crosshairs. Since I didn't use any levels or plum lines did I have some sort of happy accident setting my scope up?

By eye is usually close enough-- if you're good at it. The problem is that many shooters don't hold a gun truly perpendicular to the real horizontal plane. I've picked up various shooters guns and noted that the crosshairs can be off a couple degrees. If you only shoot at one distance, it's no big deal,but if you shoot at varying ranges, it will affect your POI.
A few other notes: commercial levels can be off and the top of breechblocks aren't necessarily dead square to vertical. We can assume they are close, but never assume they are perfect. I have a precision machinists level (expensive) that is correct to within 2/10,000ths" in a foot and one day I was checking several other contractor grade levels I had lying about. Every one of them was off... some considerably. I've also found some dovetails on guns were machined at less than perfect angles, so never assume they are dead-nuts either.

...align the vertical crosshair with the vertical axis of the bore, odds are that your pellet will have a windage error (deviation) of some meaurement in its trajectory (say from 15 yards to 45 yards for instance). That could be a left to right, or right to left as evidenced by POI accross distance...

With that error in place, if you zero at a chosen distance, say 25-30 yards, you've adjusted your Aimpoint at that distance with the windage and elevation adjutments on your scope to converge with the POI/trajectory at that distance. The windge deviation will become evident by taking a shot inside that distance (say 15 yards) and then past it (say 40-45 yards).

A vertical crosshair that is in alignment with the axis of the bore will help you minimize windage errors accross distance right out of the gate. A ScopLevel will help you bank on that set up by helping you keep the rifle level from shot to shot.

Getting the vertical crosshair plumb is one part of the equation. If after you do all the above windage deviations are still unaceptably aparent, you can use windage adjustable mounts such as the Beeman 5039s (or BSquare) to bring your vertical crosshair into alignment with the axis of your bore (ie. bore-sight the vertical crosshair).

BKL Technology mounts are notoriouly known for being machined for precision when it comes to minimizing mount-induced windage errors... but the machining on your scope dovetails and the alignment of the bore relevant to the dovetails needs to be good enough to not require windage adjustable mounts to begin with.

Having said all the above, bare in mind that a margin of error is acceptable if it's predictable at a particular range and you can compensate for it with a little 'aimpoint english' on your part.

Additional resources:

http://www.eatel.net/~amptech/elecdisc/scopemountingsetting.swf

2006-08-30T14:23:00.000-07:00

Airgun photo contest!

Wanted: Photo of many Crosman airguns in either a trash can or dumpster.

Reward: A ticket to heaven.

I would do it myself, but I have no crosman guns. It will be viewed by many people, I can assure you of that. Please e-mail to skavoian@yahoo.com

2006-08-30T00:09:00.000-07:00

Oh no! At the world 2006 FT championships the Americans got their asses kicked:

http://www.network54.com/Forum/79537/message/1156894154/Tim+brought+up+something+interesting

http://www.network54.com/Forum/79537/message/1156881405/2006+FT+World+Champ+Pics

Now let's bring out the excuses:

1. They shoot 12ft lbs. vs. 20ft. lbs. in the states.
2. There is a time limit.
3. No harnesses allowed.
4. It wasn't a good hair day.
5. I forgot to take my meds.
6. My lucky charm wasn't with me.
7. My kotex was irritating me during the shoot.

Since this competition is trying to mimic shooting small game, it only makes sense that oneself wouldn't have all the time in the world to shoot a critter or strap on a harness to take a shot. In the UK there is a 12ft. lb. energy limit so you have to expect that before you enter.

Reality is you have to adapt to the rules. Practice under those conditions. The USFT will not substitute for skill. When will you people ever learn? Never mind, I'm talking to people who have enormous egos and no brain. I know you're the most successful people on the planet, so I'll stop here.

2006-08-13T12:48:00.000-07:00

I've warned you people before, but now I have proof that airgun events are dangerous. EVERYBODY PANIC.

2006-08-08T00:05:00.000-07:00

It seems that the charliedatuna incident has come and gone, so now people to have to make sense of what really happened. I don't know how much money we're talking about per year, but I'm sure the margins are good. Since Steve in NC is no longer in the picture, apparently Bob has improved the design of the trigger unit (With some good salesmanship I might add):

http://www.charliedatuna.com/GRT-III%20trigger.htm

This is an important lesson to Steve in regards to intellectual property rights. As a business, this is one of the most important assets the company possesses. Here is a starting point people:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0446678317/sr=8-1/qid=1155020845/ref=pd_bbs_1/102-5889343-0477735?ie=UTF8

I suppose it won't be that big of a loss for Steve. From the looks of Bob on the homepage, I give him another 2-5 years in the business, and up to a10 year life expectancy max.

Anyone care to photoshop?

2006-07-08T09:53:00.000-07:00

Installing a Apex or Crow Magnum style muzzle brake

This guide is for those of you who are interested in installing a permanent muzzle brake on your airgun barrel that is 16mm in diameter. The apex and crow magnum sleeve do not come with shim inserts that go over the barrel. If you want a brake with on/off flexibility without marring the barrel for iron sight use, look into the Beeman universal or Straightshooters line of brakes.

http://www.straightshooters.com/beeman/bumbrake.html

http://www.straightshooters.com/sshooters/ssmuzzlebrake.html

You basically have two choices for over the counter close-ended muzzle brakes.

http://www.centuryinter.net/lizy/brakz.html

http://www.springgunning.com/

Measure the barrel face diameter. Normally they are 16mm, but double check just to make sure. The RX barrels have known to be a little larger.

Take off the front and rear sights from the gun. This should be a relatively easy task, but sometimes you’ll need a gunsmithing screwdriver to take the screws out.

B-Square offers a great set of bits at an affordable price. If possible, try to find the same bits at Sears. The Craftsman tools are guaranteed for life. http://www.midwayusa.com/rewriteaproduct/429783

However, the B-Square allen heads aren’t the most precision ground bits on the planet. Occasionally I find myself using the Beeman allen head adapters in conjunction with the B-Square bits to not strip the threads.

http://www.straightshooters.com/beeman/balenhd.html

Measure 4.75” away from the barrel’s crown, and use masking tape to mark off this distance. I wrap the diameter of the barrel twice to make sure the brake stops at its intended destination.

The JM apex brake is 6” (at least the two I purchased were this long). JM recommended to me that inside of the brake should be 1” away from the crown. There is a .25” space between the muzzlebrake crown to the beginning of the inside machining. So mask off the barrel (6” length of brake - 1” proper spacing - .25” space at end of brake = 4.75”) 4.75” away from the crown for proper spacing.

Note regarding Apex brakes: Jim does not screw the two 4mm grub screws into the brake. They are separate in the bag. Do not throw out the bag until you find them! If you do, you can go to your local specialty hardware store and ask for 4mm set screws. If they are too long, you can always grind them down with a pin vise http://www.midwayusa.com/rewriteaproduct/418670 and dremel tool. As of September 17, 2004, each set screw cost $.30 each where I live.

If your barrel is over 16mm consult with JM to make sure the brake will fit your barrel. The last Apex muzzle brake production was a few thou tighter because of Webley non-Walther barreled guns going to .620-.626" on average. BSA barrels sometime run from .610 +. The brake ID is 16mm .6299"+ . Most HW barrels before ‘04 ran about .626 or so. They start at .6299 but polishing prior to bluing should reduce them

If you want to “level” the brake so the screws won’t look like they’re crooked underneath after installation, mark off a 2” piece of paper in .5” increments. Eyeball the marks so they look even while the paper is wrapped around the barrel. When you are satisfied, mark the masking tape on the barrel so you can line up the screw holes when the brake goes on. These lines can also serve as reference points when you apply JB Weld.

There are a variety of methods to grind down the front site. There are:

1. Dremel or similar power tool for small jobs

2. Flat file

Regardless of which method you choose, I recommend using a hand file for filing off the sharp edges from the muzzle when you’re near completion from grinding on the barrel. File one way only in the down position. Be very careful, as it probably won’t take more than 15 strokes for both edges to be grounded off (depending on type of .

The object is to grind the ridges flat to conform to the rest of the barrel. Grind at an angle towards the bottom ridge. I started at the top ridge pointing the file towards the bottom ridge. When the file connected to the bottom ridge I know I’m getting close to completing the job.

You’ll also want to grind smooth the “humps” near the end of the cut grooves (slots closest toward the stock).

If there are any sharp edges at the face of the barrel, round those off too. You will not ruin accuracy if done carefully. In other words, just make the grinding job look and feel like only the bluing was rubbed off.

It took me 15 – 20 minutes of careful grinding (by hand) to achieve the desired result.

Check the smoothness of the barrel every five minutes to check your progress.

Once you have completely filed the ridges and humps off the barrel (with no sharp edges), the part of the job is finished.

Most often a slow installation is from not knowing the exact places to remove on the barrel. If you cut the biggest barrels out there now, its the 16mm R series from Beeman. You’re not doing this as it’s not a good idea unless you choke the barrel.

If you cut an R series barrel the brake slips on with no alteration at all. That tells you that the brake is made to easily slip on a HW barrel and that the filing is critical to fit only because the grooves are there and most 1'st timers are hesistant.

Walther barrels are problems because they are .634-.636+ (Longbow as an example) However a 124-127, Kodiak, Xocet etc are straight push ons. JM’s next run will probably open them back up to .635" or so.

Use just a big lathe file and hit the rails hard and work on one side with several quick swipes, than the other and then hit the center top of the rails. This works fast if your aggresive and takes only a few minutes on R series, 124 etc.

Often people take forever only because the top center extreme front edge is the only hold up but they dont know it.

If you put the brake on a Longbow- your screwed- barrel is a fat Walther. But then again no work is required for a Kodiak, Xocet , Stingray, BSA etc. Now later RWS guns are fat and extra work will be required.

Also if your into speed and dont care about extra mess walk over to the grinder and flatten the rails swiftly and then pretty them up with a few file swipes.

Lathe file or grinder- then I walk over to the buffer and hit it with the 400 grit wheel, then the cut- polish bar and clean up and touch up with Oxpho blue.

Next step is to hand fit the brake onto the barrel. Whatever you do, do not force the brake on! You will need to trial run the brake many times before it provides the proper fit. If you don’t do any internal sanding within the brake, consider yourself lucky.

Most likely the brake will not go on smoothly the first time. There will be a lot of rough spots, but this is normal. From here on you do not touch the barrel after filing the barrel have been finished. Now you will need to sand the inside diameter of the brake to make a proper fit.

On your first run, continue to push the brake until it bottoms out by hand. Make sure the pressure is light because the brake can easily seize.

Initially I tried soap and water as a lubricant. When the brake did bottom out, I had a hell of a time getting it off. When the brake eventually came loose, rust was already forming on the grinded area.

I used soap and water because I have a weight training station that uses foam handles. The grips on the weight equipment eventually went bad, and I ordered new ones. I was having problems installing the new grips, and the manufacture told me to use soap and water to work the foam grips on. It worked. Apparently the soap and water method didn’t work for this application.

This will give you an idea how much to sand the inside of the brake. There are two methods:

1. Purchase a wooden dowel at Home depot that is a smaller diameter than the internal diameter of the brake. Bring the brake only to Home Depot for testing. Purchase coarse sandpaper for metal finishing. The scratches from the coarse sandpaper will also create better gripping power between the muzzlebrake and barrel too.

2. Use 5/8” drill rod attached a hand drill. At the end of the drill rod, cut a 1” slot so it can accept sandpaper. Roll the sandpaper around the rod until it fits the inside of the brake snugly.

Make sure you are careful inserting the sandpaper into the brake. You do not want to ruin the finish at the entrance of the brake when you are finished.

I used method #1 because I didn’t have the drill rod setup. Wrap the sandpaper around the dowel, and gently insert the dowel with the sandpaper into the brake. Pay careful attention that you don’t hit the sides of the muzzlebrake entrance. They are finished too.

Make sure to hold onto the sandpaper while inserting and sanding, otherwise, the sandpaper will ride up the dowel. Now sand the brake in five-minute intervals. Blow the sandpaper out the muzzle brake and insert onto the barrel until it fits nicely.

Once you have determined the brake goes on without bottoming out along the entire course of the barrel until it stops at the masking tape, I use Beeman MP-5 oil to clean the inside of the muzzle brake and the outside of the barrel.

The final task is to permanently attach the muzzle brake to the barrel. I use JB “cold weld” epoxy adhesive that is available at Wal-Mart or Home Depot.

Do not apply JB Weld to the inside of the brake. This could possibly collect on the crown of the barrel during installation.

Don’t waste your time thinking the brake won’t move ever again with loctiting the grub screws. I tried this on an R-1. After three attempts (even drilling tiny holes in the barrel with a dremel tool for the grub screws to grab), this procedure is useless on magnum springers.

To prep the surface, I use JB weld clean and prep adhesive surface preparation. Then, mix two equal size epoxy components into a nickel-sized spot, then dab in a dot fashion with JB at north/south/east west points on the barrel. Immediately put the brake one, aligning up screws to the pencil marks on the underside of the masking tape. Once everything is aligned up, remove the masking tape. Clean up excess glue with a q-tip. Use a flat-headed toothpick as the glue expands out of the crevice.

You can use either blue/red loctite, or JB weld when you put the grub screws back in. this ensures the grub screws don’t fall out. Doesn’t really matter what threadlocker you use, as the brake isn’t coming off again.

Wait 24 hours for the adhesive to cure, and then start shooting.

Additional Notes from various posters:

If any traces of the front dovetail is left above the surface, they will merely "lock-up" in the aluminum brake and twisting it will cause the high spots in the barrel to gouge and tear up the aluminum, further worsening the situation. This is why you have to achieve a full length slip fit with these or Crow Magnum style brakes. They should never be forced on. If you can't do a direct 'tap off' of the brake, you'll probably have to slit it full length, spread it slightly to remove it, then toss it in the trash and start over again.

Take a block of hardwood about 2 inches wide and six inches long. Drill a hole in it about the diameter of the barrel., then cut a slot to meet the sides of the hole such that the slot width is the same as the diameter of the barrel and the hole you drilled. Carefully clamp the barrel in a strong vise and drop the block over the barrel. Slide it up to the Apex brake, and carefully, holding the open side of the block., tap the other end with a hammer against the end of the brake.

I've used it successfully myself several times. Pay the extra for oak or similar hardwood.

The main thing I'll add is, you could drizzle some oil where the barrel and brake meet--be generous with the oil, and adding a little moly or graphite to the oil wouldn't hurt if you have some to add. Let gravity do the work, and let it sit that way for at least an hour or two--even overnight.

After the oil has had some time to penetrate, commence to secure the barrel, and hammer away at the wood in the direction that will remove the brake. Tapping note: It's not for the timid. Quite sharp raps will often break something loose where weak little rap-a-taps will not. Whack it. And I'd definitely forget the twisting thing---99 times out of a 100 it will just make things worse, as noted.
tape the barrel just behind the MB along with a plumber's hard seal cut so you can put it against the rear of MB. Use a little
tape to secure that hard seal in place. Now with a boxed/open end wrench ( size to fit close to barrel dia. ) or two, with
work glove on hold the wrench open end firmly in place behind the MB and wack some solid blows with a hammer
near the open end mouth of the wrench(es). Heat, lube if ya think it'll help. Wack some more.

. If your barrel is over 16mm consult with JM to make sure the brake will fit your barrel. The last Apex muzzle brake production was a few thou tighter because of Webley non-Walther barreled guns going to .620-.626" on average. BSA barrels sometime run from .610 +. The brake ID is 16mm .6299"+ . Most HW barrels before ‘04 ran about .626 or so. They start at .6299 but polishing prior to bluing should reduce them.

2006-06-18T22:51:00.000-07:00

Every year or so there is an epic story in the airgunning world that reaches cataclismic proportions. Other examples of yearly cyclic occurances in this community are:

1. Russ Best looking for a job.
2. One individual being banned from all airgun message boards due to misbehavior.

Although in reality there is no significance for such occurances, you would swear the sky is falling on you if you dare visit the airgun message boards during these heated debates. Who can argue with such tremors in the community? There is nothing in life more important.
What we are talking about today is Charliedatuna's recent endeavor into the message board scene. Although I find tuning a Chinese, Crosman, and Daisy gun an absolute waste of time, there is great demand for this service. His tuning venture was even home to other cheap parts that he and Steve in NC developed.
Apparently, the world came crashing down with Bob's retirement of his tuning business days after the "Gateway to Airguns" message board hit the online scene on 6.15.06. After a total shit storm of lies and betrayals by both yellow forum and the 'Tuna camps, Bob announced his retirement on 6.18.06.
Ever since this faithful day no one has the tackled the foundation of the debacle. Was Bob really using inferior springs? Why have both sides only pissed and moaned, with no concrete evidence posted on the subject? Until then, it's a complete waste of time. However, I get a kick out of the reading the charged emotions from the people that have no idea of what is going on. Here are some links for your reading pleasure:

http://kermit-texas-airgun-club.blogspot.com/

http://www.gatewaytoairguns.com/

http://www.network54.com/Forum/417256/message/1150636277/Alfred%2CJoben%2CRuss+Best%2C+Cruisers+%2Cvince11+etc+etc

http://www.network54.com/Forum/417256/message/1150635915/Something+is+fishy+in+Tuna+land....

http://www.network54.com/Forum/417256/message/1150496215/Because+Warner+Charlie+DaTuna+keeps+spreading+lies...

http://www.network54.com/Forum/275684/message/1150689580/CharlieDaTuna+ordering

http://www.network54.com/Forum/275684/message/1150587363/Looks+like+the+CharlieDaTuna+website+is+fading+away.

2006-06-08T21:29:00.000-07:00

There is one character on the airgun boards that makes me wonder about his personality. Currently, his name is herbair. He has also gone under the names:

1. Airghost
2. Airghoul

When he was airghost, he threw all kinds of fits. A year or so later, he came back as airghoul. This time, he was more relaxed and calm. Word around the campfire was Herb had a personality disorder, so he needed professional help. I'll deduce the conclusion for each handle:

1. Airghost = no meds
2. Airghoul = The medicated Herb

Now I see him as Herbair. Of all the years I've seen this guy post, they've been centered around two concepts:

1. If you only had one airgun, what would it be and why?
2. I only have one high-end airgun, and I'm going to talk about it to death.

If I asked the same questions year after year I would of put a bullet though my head a long time ago. Please spare the community, and stop asking the same questions again and again!

2006-05-25T08:50:00.000-07:00

It's Q&A time! Well boys and girls, you have many uneducated questions. I'll take a half-hour out of my day (Normally a billable rate of $100) to answer them one at a time.

Question 1:

I'm buying a starter airgun for my son/daughter. I want you to compare and contrast all models within a hundred dollar price range. I'd like you to compare the fit and finish, trigger, accuracy, c-t-c, and maintenance required for each rifle. After you've done this homework, I want to know which airgun is the best pick while you provide the evidence supporting your claim.

WTF? These people have a lot of nerve asking others to do their homework. The scary thing is the old farts on the boards trip over each other to answer this one question broken into 20 sub-questions. Oftentimes the retards who ask the question don't listen to or appreciate the responses anyway. You deserve an early death if you answer these threads.

2006-05-14T09:29:00.000-07:00

Somehow the technical posts create a lot of respect for the poster who writes them. Why? I'm not exactly sure, but theory envelopes the entire thought. If you want to be popular while debating about topics that have zero relevance in the real world, talk about:

1. Debouncing hammers
2. Corkscrewing pellets

And other lame observations by Yrrah and Steve in NC.
If anyone challenges your theory, just reference some obscure scientific journal. You are always right, and no one can take that away from you.
Why do people believe everything they hear? Everyone is always looking for the next best gadget, only to find that most are worthless. Examples include:

1. Many of the pellet pouches on the market today.
2. Low end scopes.
3. Daisy and Crosman products.

2006-05-09T23:57:00.000-07:00

There are so many stupid posts on the airgun boards it is pathetic. Do you people think? I didn't think so either.

Popular questions that get you absolutely nowhere:

1. How old were you when you heard of gun safes?
2. What kind of airgun would you choose for survival?
3. What pellet does my gun like best?
4. This scope vs. that scope.
5. This gun vs. that gun.

The list goes on and on. Do you people ever get tired of it? Talking and debating endlessly about nothing.

2006-05-02T18:22:00.000-07:00

It's post of the month time! This where you people vote for your favorite post for April '06. Just kidding. It's a lame idea only reserved for elementary school. However, the big boys at the yellow forum thrive on it!

http://www.network54.com/Forum/79537/message/1145546736/I%27m+father+of+a+9+%26amp%3B+13+year+boys.

Where are the grammar police? "We hunts and fish together", and "I'm father of a 9 & 13 year old boys"? The post is so sickening I couldn't get through the first paragraph.

I didn't realize how rampant inbreeding is throughout the nation. I can't do anything to stop the madness anyway. Dating your sister is just wrong!

2006-04-28T00:56:00.000-07:00

I've always been concerned with people who name their airgun after a lady or some other stupid object. Who knows what goes on between them and the poor gun behind closed doors. I especially notice guys who want cut, choke, and crown a perfectly good barrel. Maybe the crown was worn down prematurely by some other act that the manufacturer didn't intend it for? I distinctly remember someone engraved the rear replacement plate of an R series gun with "her" intended name. He was gay for sure. Also, if you sleep with your guns, don't mention it on a public forum. Discretely mention it to a would-be buyer when you intend to sell it.

2006-04-25T00:08:00.000-07:00

The dumbest and most frequent question on the airgun boards is undoubtedly the pellet recommendation for X brand of airgun. I'm sure this question carries over to all types of hand-held weapons: firearms, blowguns, paintball, softair, etc. Here is the answer folks: You have to try different projectiles in the weapon at a given distance you plan to shoot. All you have to do is find the projectile that performs the best in five shot groups. That's it, really. What a complete waste of time by answering these moronic questions. Believe me, if there is no such thing as a dumb question, this one certainly takes the award for proving that theory wrong. Yes, you are born with the ability to figure this one out on your own.

2006-04-20T20:05:00.000-07:00

Shooting cats have always been a controversial topic on airgun forums. Whether you like or hate cats, someone will be shooting them. For some odd reason, the people involved in the airgun post somehow have no other idea of how to get rid of the problem. Instead of thinking in their life for the first time, they stay completely focused on no solutions. It never occurred to them that the proper way to rid your property of this dreaded affliction is to rent a cat trap, bait it with cat food, and take to offending cat to the pound (you only take the cat that is causing you grief away). If nobody claims the cat in a week, it will use up its nine lives at the drop-off location. Don't be an idiot and shoot cats, feral or not! Believe me, the city will make quick work of the mess before you know it. Have patience my brother.

Here is some cat comic relief brought to you by the Crosman forum:

http://www.network54.com/Forum/275684/message/1106780659/Ferel+Cat

http://www.network54.com/Forum/275684/message/1106886226/Ferel+cat+revisited

2006-04-11T13:11:00.000-07:00

Message from airgun moderators: Stop posting so many hunting pics with dead game! What did you think people are going to do with their airguns? They either:

1. Punch paper.
2. Buy the gun as eye candy, and never to shoot it.
3. Shoot anything that moves.

Buy the way, you can't control what people do with their guns on the message boards. Freaking out and verbally abusing them won't help one bit. Apparently these people don't realize the very meat they are eating straight out of their local grocery store had it much worse. I'm not going into the details, but I can assure you the suffering lasts more than a minute.
I suppose the media plays a large part in pulling the wool over the public eye. The shoot 'em up movies are turned out in Hollywood every week, yet the censors happily omit images of the real McCoy.
I can only reason after so many years on the boards the moderators are too stupid to create a policy of limiting hunting pictures. This means no more than five posts per week on the subject. Now that was simple. All you have to do now is enforce it when people flare up on the boards.
Now for your pleasure, a video that was pulled off the yellow forum. You make your own decisions if it is out of line or not.

http://rapidshare.de/files/18034398/crowout.wmv.html

2006-04-08T09:36:00.000-07:00

Seems like one kid is controlling the adults on the yellow:

Steve in CT's poor moderation skills

Spencer's personal website:

http://www.airgunartisans.com/AANoNo.htm

My question is, why can't people just not read the content if they don't like it? You would figure adults have learned this by now, but not when you are dealing with people who can barely tie their shoes. More examples are:

1. In the early 2000's, a poster by the name of Jon C. irritated and offended the community. I didn't read his posts, but there is a striking similarity between Jon C. and Spencer. I don't read Spencer's posts either, but I find it amusing that many others are getting their panties in a knot over it.
2. In 2004-2005, a poster by the name of 'Mad5757 terrorized and threatened everyone on the airgun message boards. He single-handedly brought the yellow forum down to a new low. I was a proud contributor of this new low, as I goofed on his shortcomings throughout.

I don't understand how someone you haven't met in person - yet alone talked to - can get under one's skin. Grow a spine people!

2006-04-07T19:32:00.000-07:00

Please send prayers and money my way! This is the perfect way for people to feel sorry for you. A vast majority of the posters who visit these boards already have one foot in the grave anyway. Ironically, when something tragic happens, everyone is surprised. The only problem is anyone who knows the old codger saw it coming miles away - many years before the breaking news.
I'd like to post a thread someday where I claim to be on my death bed, and requesting money from the forum members immediately. Depending on my popularity, I can probably roll in a few dollars from the stunt.
Feeling down and depressed? Get instant gratification and attention with a pity party! Here is how you do it:

1. Post a thread on an airgun forum asking for prayers. It doesn't matter what the problem is.
2. Kindly ask for assistance.
3. Set up a paypal account to accept payments.
4. Sit back and rake in free money.

That's all there is to it! You're not alone - many of the elite airgunners have done it. Most notably:

1. Russ Best
2. Blue
3. Wayne at addictive
4. DaveG

And many more!

So what are you waiting for? Get crackin' and flood the message boards with your very own I'm-down-on-my-luck story!

2006-04-05T12:55:00.000-07:00

The "A" team is a force to be reckoned with! - Their dress attire that is.

http://www.kermitairgunclub.com/meetings/cajunspring-06.htm

Is it my imagination, but are their socks pulled over the coveralls? Where are the fashion police when you need them?
In other news, it's a no brainer where the A team concept came from.
It would be funny if a guy showed up to the meet as Mr. T wearing 20lbs. of gold chains with one of these monkey suits on. I don't know about the rest of the A team crew, but the old guy with grey hair character is plentiful.
How does one become an A team member? Do I have to be wrongly accused who escaped from prison, then take it upon myself to right the wrongs in society, just like the original A team? I have to become a member no matter what it takes. I'll never have to worry about attracting the opposite sex after sporting one of those outfits. White coveralls would make me look so sexy.
Even their shoes are matching! Please excuse me right now while I barf up my lunch.

2006-04-05T12:37:00.000-07:00

Have you ever wondered what the PANSAL airgunner list is? Here you go:

http://www.network54.com/Forum/79537/message/1144211735/Info+on+what+PANSAL+is%2C+and+this+upcoming+Idaho+shoot

My first question is, why do you need a list to simply find each other? Call me crazy, but the obvious solution is the Internet and e-mail. This is the very medium you are using to communicate this list!
In fact, why do you need a list of airgunners only in the Pacific and Northwest when the Internet and e-mail are borderless? Did I miss something? What is the point?
This PANSAL joke has been the lamest idea in recent times. However, when I remember who created this society I'm not shocked at all.
I recall the founder once posted pics of himself and his family. He was the poster child of a backwoods okie. Looked like he was living off the land; prison tats everywhere. Wish I had the pic so you could witness the intelligence first-hand.
Rumor has it that Leonard in Idaho is the only one on the list. Keep the dream alive buddy!

2006-04-02T19:21:00.000-07:00

I must say I was impressed by the groups with this old skool .177 Theoben Fenman. Despite it's short barrel and less than desirable cheekrest, it performed better than any RA-800 I've shot. Transport is permanently attached courtesy of JB weld. On top is a Leupold 3-9x33 E.F.R. Five shot groups at 25 yards using H & N Barracudas at 9x. The barrel in the photo is .22. I will have to order a long brake for that if it ever is put on a rifle.

Before I JB welded any of the RA-800 barrels, I believe they were a little longer than the fenman, but not by much. Although I typically am not fond of Fenman stocks, this one is the exception.

2006-04-01T09:36:00.000-08:00

It seems that a person is either a newbie, guru, or demigod on the airgun message boards. What is the criteria for such a status? I can think of a few:

1. You're thinking of buying or have one cheap pumper - newbie status.
2. You have more than five airguns or posted on the boards for more than six months - you are a guru.
3. If you make custom spring guides - defininately demigod material. It doesn't matter if it's confirmed or how long you've been making them. Also, if you own more than ten high-end airguns you can also achieve such a status - just not as much respect.

2006-03-30T19:24:00.000-08:00

Ass kissing 101 on the airgun boards. Here is a prime example. Warning: This thread is extra sappy:

Are you kidding me?

It actually hurt me to read this. I can only think the poster is gay. No one in their right mind would post something like this unless they have other thoughts of the mark in their head. You people make me sick!

This guy thinks he has a Van Gough Airgun? This guy doesn't know it, but the USFT has been nominated for the ugliest airgun in the universe award. It reminds me of something from under the sink:

You be the judge. I can't handle this post any longer.

2006-03-29T12:21:00.000-08:00

Who created the term, "darkside" for PCP airguns? I would think one would be stepping down to a cheaper airgun, possibly an airgun that is illegal in some areas. The meaning on forums is someone is switching from a co2 or spring gun to a precharged one. What a stupid name and idea to use a PCP gun. We all know it came from some lonely airgunner who watched Star Wars a thousand times, and had a crazy idea to somehow apply it to PCP guns. The scary part about it is the idea caught on. Give yourself a pat on the back for being associated with people who have an IQ of 70.

2006-03-27T19:51:00.000-08:00

With respect to break barrel spring guns (HW guns in particular) the proper tension level should allow the barrel to maintain any position along it range of motion once the rifle is cocked.

Too little tension and the gun won't group. Too much and you'll simply be adding wear on the barrel assembly and bushings. Be sure to use a screwdriver that is a full and tight fit in the slot.

Once you've tensioned the barrel pivot screw to a level you feel is correct (do this with the breech exposed to relieve any additional tension on the assembly), cock the gun. Position the barrel mid-way in its cocking cycle. The barrel should maintain its position, yet be easily moved again with a moderate tap of your hand.

Test the tension level by tapping the barrel both upward and down. The barrel should never "fall" via gravity when tapped, but simply moved a short distance by the force of the impact. It should then maintain its position until you apply force again to complete the cocking cycle.

At the Beeman factory they would routinely remove the stock and secure the rifle in a padded vice. This obviously makes the job easier and safer for both the rifle and the would-be tech.

However, once the pivot screw is tensioned to the level you feel is required, remove the action and test the pivot tension as I described previously. (Unless you have enough clearance around your vice to test the pivot tension while the gun is still secured.)

Ever notice how common it is for the breech shims fitted to HW guns to gall and tear up the breech jaws on stock HW guns? I know HW even feels the tension should be set the way you describe, but it’s too tight!

Tension the barrel pivot screw, then backed off 1/8 turn on the nut to allow the barrel to fall quite freely. Some people have reported they got really good accuracy with this method. This level of clamping is probably hundreds of psi less on the breech shims, allowing better lube movement and reducing wear.

Another way is to tension the screw that you feel is required, then back off 1/4 turn. Make sure the pivot screw doesn’t turn at the same time. There are some guns that the barrel cannot fall freely. These guns often have a piston liner, and a separate cocking foot or plate that imparts their own level of friction to the cocking process, independent of the pivot tension. Examples are the R-9, 10,11 and R-1.

According to the beeman catalog the barrel tension should be just tight enough for the barrel to stay motionless at any location thru its return of the cocking stroke if let go.

The tension on the barrel should be just enough to hold the weight of the barrel motionless at any point along the return arc of the cocking stroke.

"The tension on the barrel should be enough to hold the weight of the barrel motionless at any point along the return arc of the cocking stroke".

"Motionless" means "gently so", not 'hard locked' at that point in the arc of travel. The catalog doesn't exactly spell that out.

That will take care of most of them, but occasionally a particular airgun is a little picky about that setting. Once set as described, if groups are not ideally tight and all else fails, try a little tighter or a little looser on the barrel pivot bolt. I've seen it do the trick many times--suddenly groups tighten up nicely.

2006-03-22T12:10:00.000-08:00

Who made up the word hold sensitivity? A self proclaimed airgun goo-roo attempts to make sense of it all in his 7th grade essay found here:

http://www.network54.com/Forum/79537/message/1143001880/Something+helpful+for+newer+shooters.

The most important question is, "What is hold sensitivity"? However, Russ never addresses the issue. The only hint of an explanation is, "not what we'd call hold sensitive". What is he talking about?

I like how the airgun gods have coined their own term to the way of holding the gun. The truth is that hold has been around as long as the guns. You didn't create anything people.

Generalities abound such as, "minimal contact", "don't GRIP the forestock", and "pull-in pressure".

My favorite is him trying to sell the idea of a tune will reduce this terrible hold sensivitity problem without telling people what it actually is.

The fact is all hand held weapons have many problems, with a majority being the shooter. Another myth busted! You may now kneel to me.

2006-03-20T12:41:00.000-08:00

Want to become an airgun god? Follow these simple yet effective rules to bring you to the airgunning elite circle within months, not years.

1. Talk about tuning. Just bring up that you dabble in machining. Lie and talk about custom spring guides. That's a hot button on the forums. People take your word for it, and will put you on a pedestal in no time.

2. Use capital letters when you want to emphasize or stress importance. Example: You should of seen my FAT wife shoot the Talon. Her SWEATY pits covered HALF the rifle.

3. Name drop other airgun gods, and that you hang with them. There are plenty of self-proclaimed airgun gods running around.

2006-03-20T00:37:00.000-08:00

Freedom of speech regarding dealers and tuners on airgun message boards is a joke. Why is it universally accepted with online airgun message boards not to discuss experiences with a particular person or business? It's common knowledge that people will have good and bad experiences. Why not tolerate them, if in fact they are true? The yellow forum goes out of their way to state the oppression:

http://www.network54.com/Forum/79537/message/1141582501/Forum+Rules+and+policies.

Straightshooters does the same thing. In fact I was banned for it on both the Straighshooters and Bull Durham sites! Russ Best knew he cut corners, and I called him on it. Reality caught up with him and pulling the wool over customer's eyes would only last so long. In the end, he had to get a job and fold up the tuning business. I suppose the apple doesn't fall far from the tree, as he teamed up with another crook named Wayne at addictive airgunning. This low life had the nerve to automatically sign people up for another year of the online subscription, and not deliver the goods. On top of that, he posted the business for sale while not refunding subscribers money! I loved it when devote followers tried defending the poor sap by saying, "It was a new venture - consider your money a learning experience". I think there were hundreds of subscribers who got taken. I believe someone figured out the dollar amount. Just be aware these moderators are far from professionals when it comes to doing the right thing. At least they could look into a diplomatic review system like:

http://www.pricewatch.com/

2006-03-14T20:32:00.000-08:00

Airgun forums in order of censorship and moderation:

1. Bull Durham - The worst of the worst. Larry Durham is a bitter 'ol man that will ban you if you even disagree with him. He has brought the masses such hillbilly airguns such as the LD pistol and simple simon rifle. If you want to kiss ass, this is the ultimate place to hang out. The forum basically revolves around Larry and Mac1 airguns.

Go to the yellow forum, and look at the drop down menu. The URL is too long to be posted here.

2. Straightshooters - You better not talk about nor provide links to the competition. Remember, these 'ol guys think this thing called the information superhighway is crazy! Kevin is known to fly off the handle on and offline, so watch out for some fireworks if he doesn't get his meds for the day. The intelligence of this board is almost on par with diamonds.

http://www.straightshooters.com/chat/

3. Yellow forum - Ever since James Kitching passed away, Steve in CT was handed over the keys. He has made it his blog of sorts, although he won't admit it. He has a hard time managing it, so a number of other airgun nuts have joined him in the crusade of endless talking about the same topics over and over again.

http://www.network54.com/Forum/79537/

4. Diamonds - Man, this place is a true tard farm. It never ceases to amaze me how stupid the posts are here.

http://www.network54.com/Forum/50544/

5. Airgun underground - Initially ran by James Maccari, this forum has gone through many changes since it changed hands. It was handed over to Jeff E., a lonesome troublemaker who created problems throughout the entire community. In the end, he was too emotionally unstable for such an endeavor, and handed it over to another individual. You might see one post every few weeks on this board. If you are contemplating suicide, you'll really want to finish off the deed after visiting this forum for 15 minutes.

http://ccairguns.aimoo.com/

2006-03-11T23:30:00.000-08:00

This recently acquired Theoben SLR 88 carbine was quite a surprise when I took it to the local range. What sold me on this gun is the the limited production run, vintage stock and trigger, and the unique carbine length. The "full length" version of the SLR is already compact, but this one has a couple more inches taken off the overall package. It orginally came with a simmons scope, but that was quickly replaced with a Leupold 3-9x33 EFR. The previous owner told me only 10 of these were ever made. I took his word since he was a former airgun dealer. With such a short barrel, I wasn't expecting stellar groups with this gun. Was I wrong. The previous owner also included five clips. They just so happened to have Crosman Premiers already loaded. I figured why not boresight with them. Unfortunately for me, I didn't bring CP's that day, as they grouped the best in this gun. These are five shot groups at 25 yards, using 9x magnification. I really was stunned at the performance, as none of my RA-800's have acheived such accuracy. I did try FTS's, but they didn't group as well. This is the first time CP's have been the first choice in any of my springers.

2006-03-09T12:53:00.000-08:00

Reasons why not to use USPS to ship your airgun or related accessories:

1. Can't track the shipment
2. Employees have no idea were the package is at any given time
3. Costs significantly more for packages over 10 lbs.

I've had it with this carrier. Why are the employees so incompetent with every aspect of the business? It seems like every question you have ends with, "I don't know"?

This is nothing new. I have observed this behavior for as long as I can remember; at least 20 years.

I finally realized what was going on when I saw the application. It went something like this:

1. If you know how to read and write, what is the highest grade that you completed?

A. 4th grade
B. 5rd grade
C. 6th grade
D. 7th grade

2. If you could rate your troubleshooting ability on a scale from 1 to 10, what would it be?

A. 0
B. 1
C. 2
D. 3

Note: If you have any trace of troubleshooting ability, you will NOT be considered for any position.

I recently wanted to pick up a Leupold scope that I missed during normal scheduled delivery. When I gave the postal worker the pickup slip at the station, she took 10 minutes then came back to the window. She said she couldn't find it. How can you not find a shipment with a tracking # that is insured? I felt like saying, "Please direct me to one individual here that is not inbred".

She then gave me a phone # to call. After two hours I received a call back saying the package was at the station. The question is, "Why would you trust a carrier shipping your expensive items when they don't have a system in place"? I love the tracking #'s. If you try to track it, the results will always be "In transit". Problem is, no one knows where the shipment is at any given time, including ALL workers at USPS (not most).

At least FedEx and UPS have a true tracking system you can monitor. I suppose if you work for a government entity that prohibits competition, there is no incentive to improve anyway.

Moral of the story: Don't use this crummy service if you have anything valuable!

2006-03-06T15:39:00.000-08:00

Barrel Changing steps:

1) Carefully study tension on barrel cocking linkage. You’ll have to set this tension again when installing the new barrel. Do not skip this step, or you’ll be sorry if this is your first time changing break barrels. If you skip this step, and you have a similar type rifle, you can study the pivot tension on that gun.

2) Remove the barrel pivot bolt.

3) Remove the lock nut on the barrel pivot bolt.

4) Cock the rifle.

5) Remove the barrel pivot bolt.

6) Inset a punch or similar item (screwdriver, etc. – make sure diameter of item is slightly smaller than barrel pivot hole – minimal “play”) to replace the barrel pivot bolt.

7) Uncock the rifle.

8) Remove the barrel.

9) Deburr barrel pivot spacers. One item to do this job is a Scotch-Brite Light Deburring Wheel, 8 in x 1 in x 3 in. found here: http://rshughes.com/products/048011_01666.html . If you are tuning guns, this item is essential.

10) Use Jim Maccari (JM) velocity tar, abbey gunlube SM50, or similar moly paste on cocking linkage. E-mail randy bimrose to purchase SM50: barrelbender@earthlink.net . I do not know of another vendor who sells SM50 in the U.S. JM sells velocity tar at: http://www.airguns.citymax.com/page/page/251327.htm under the lubricants link.

11) Apply JM’s velocity tar, SM50, or similar moly paste to both sides of pivot spacers.

12) Holding pivot spacers into place, install the new barrel.

13) Lube barrel detent with velocity tar, SM50, or similar moly paste.

14) Insert the punch or similar item into the barrel pivot hole (see step 6), and cock the rifle.

15) Install the barrel pivot bolt and adjust to proper tension. The barrel shouldn’t fall by itself. Refer to step 1.

16) Uncock the rifle.

17) Install the lock nut.

18) Go sight in the rifle with the new barrel.

Additional notes:

#2 is wrong. Maybe that should be remove stock.
I don't know who's procedure this is but if your shims are junk you pitch them and replace. They can start to ball up and make a huge mess if they are thrashed.

2006-03-06T15:37:00.000-08:00

Airgun Tuning Buying Guide

This guide intends to inform the reader about professional airgun tuners in the marketplace. Its purpose is to provide questions to ask yourself before deciding to tune your airgun, a brief background in tunes, and vendors who offer tuning parts if you decide to go the DIY route.

In Internet airgun message boards, you will tend to see airgun tuners attaining celebrity status. Do not be fooled by this “elevated level” of authority. The tuning business is just like any other business. You need them and they need you. There is no divine appointment to this career path (unless you like to idolize machinist work). If you frequent these message boards, you’d think these tuners were national treasures.

Phase I: Qualify Needs

You have to decide if a tune is necessary. What expectations would you have for a tune? What would make it "worth it" to you? More power? Smoother? What would make you happy, and think it was worth the money? This URL is very helpful in asking these questions:

http://springgunning.com/tune.html

Custom spring guides: So many Internet posters talk about custom spring guides, but I don’t think they actually know what they are talking about. For some unknown reason, airgun tuners use buzzwords such as “custom spring guides”, “proprietary lubes”, and “hold sensitivity”. Try to omit them from your vocabulary. They will only get you nowhere.

For example, someone at Venom has actually taken the time to measure the inside of the R1/HW 80, which make an almost perfect fit in almost any one of these production guns. For example, JM sells “custom” kits. In reality, they are “custom” drop-in parts. Obviously, the term “custom” is often misleading in differentiating one tune from another.

Phase II: Cost Justify

Keep in mind the average tune job today is over a $125. Would you overhaul your car’s brand new engine off the showroom floor? I have a hard time justifying a tune when the gun is new, but some people insist on a tuned gun right from the start. From my experience, accuracy is negligible between an untuned and tuned gun. It’s the increased smoothness in the firing cycle that really matters (to me, at least).

Phase III: What is the risk of buying, or not buying?

Tuning is usually related to smoothing the firing cycle and sometimes increasing power output. Few tuners do a before and after accuracy test on the guns, and most will willingly tune just the action. In most cases, if you send an innaccurate gun for a tune, it will usually come back a smoother firing, innaccurate gun. It’s rare to see a gun that exhibits poor accuracy that is assembled correctly (screws tight, etc) become an accurate rifle after tuning. Although inherit accuracy can be affected to a degree by honing, etc, accuracy is most affected by the barrel and trigger. These two components must be attended to first if they are not up to production specifications.

If you want to see a comprehensive “real world” untuned vs. tuned R1, purchase the Beeman R1 Supermagnum Air Rifle book by Tom Gaylord. This book also compares tune kits as well. A must have book if you are interested in airgun tuning performance. At the time of the writing they are hard to come by. To my knowledge, your best chance of acquiring one is through Doug Law at http://www.bigspringguns.net

Summary of book:

http://www.beemans.net/odyssey_of_the_beeman_r1.htm

Another possible route:

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B0006F5BXA/qid=1102571020/sr=8-2/ref=sr_8_xs_ap_i2_xgl14/002-2518135-4757668?v=glance&s=books&n=507846

to quickly search the net, copy/paste the ISBN (B0006F5BXA) into your favorite search engine, or at http://www.bookfinder.com

If you want to understand the mechanics of a spring gun in great detail, the best book to date is Cardew’s, “From Trigger to Target” available from airgun express.

http://www.airgunexpress.com/Accessories/booksandliterature.htm

The best book on hold, stance, and trigger techniques is undoubtably the ways of the rifle. Ways of the Rifle is available from either:

http://www.championshooters.com/books.htm

http://www.pilkguns.com/books.htm

Book overview:

http://www.mec-shot.com/products/waysoftherifle/index.html

If you decided a tune is for you, the following links will send you in the right direction.

A great place to visit up-to-date tuning links is (or at least used to be):

http://www.airguninfo.com/

Note: Jim Maccari (JM) doesn’t perform tunes. He has done this in the past, but has ceased this service since 2002. However, his spring kits are the foundation of many tunes in the market today. If you have the right tools, know how, and determination, you can do it yourself.

http://www.airguns.citymax.com/page/page/251327.htm

Pricing out a Tune Job

It is a good idea to compare a few tunes side-by-side. This research will become especially beneficial if you have a large collection of spring guns. Since this industry doesn’t change rapidly, you can refer to your initial research time and time again for many years to brush up when you’re ready to send another gun for a tune. Why research? Because research will reveal the good, the bad, and the ugly things you need to know about tunes before you buy.

As far as minor options, such as types of lubes, custom spring guides, etc., don’t get too hung up on these features with professional tuners. You’ll only be making life very difficult for yourself when you start to shop. Just consider those minor options as window dressings. Don’t let window dressings become a deciding factor in your purchase. Remember, how well your gun has been cared for is what really decides how long it will last.

Asking around is a good way to get an honest opinion. People aren’t afraid to tell you their likes or dislikes about a tune. Try the honest approach: “I’m looking into getting a tune on my , have you had any problem with yours”? Obviously, the opinion of someone who has owned a tuned gun a few years holds more credit than the opinion of someone who’s had the same tuned gun just a few months. Another good question to ask is, ”Would you get another tune from ”?

Questions to ask the tuner on the phone or e-mail:

1. How long does this type of tune take you?

2. Will you be replacing the mainspring, or using the existing one?

3. What separates you from the rest of the tuners?

4. How many years have you been tuning professionally?

5. Are you negotiable in you price? How about a quantity discount if I send you two or more guns? It never hurts to ask. The worst thing that could happen is that they say no.

Whether you’ve just started looking or have been looking, don’t go tune shopping without a good excuse for a quick escape.

1. I just started looking, and I want to see what else is around before I make any decisions.

2. I have two other options, and I want to check those out before I make any decisions.

However, have the decency to tell them you’re not interested when you’re really not. If you don’t want to hurt their feelings, you can say:

1. You know, I really wanted a lazaglide tune, or a gas ram. Whatever they offer, you wanted the opposite.

2. It doesn’t sound like what I want. I’m going to have to pass.

3. I have to work out some finances before can commit.

There are basically three types of tunes in the market. They consist of various components depending on brand and model of gun. For example, a spring, top hat, guide, and breech seal are collectively known as a kit when it comes to an R-1:

1. Factory kit

2. Maccari kit

3. Venom kit

Your first step is to figure out how much these kits cost retail. For example, if you are tuning a Beeman gun using factory parts go to:

http://www.beeman.com

Call their 800 number, and ask how much a replacement spring, guide, piston seal, and breech seal cost. From what I remember the entire HW kit cost around $45.

If you want use Maccari internals, go to:

http://www.airguns.citymax.com/page/page/251327.htm

simply look up the parts or kits that match your gun.

For Venom internals, go to Mac1:

http://www.mac1airgun.com/venom.htm

I recommend Maccari’s internals over all others due to quality and performance. You will be hard pressed for more value from a tune kit.

As mentioned before, the R1 supermagnum book by Tom Gaylord compares all of these tunes back-to-back. The comparison is fairly accurate to this day.

4. After you have acquired and researched the tune kit you’d like to install in your gun, it is now time to do research on the tuners. First step is to find out the prices of their tunes on their websites. For example, Russ Best charges $130 for a JM kit installed in your gun. This price does not include shipping both ways. This will typically cost $30 UPS ground. If you want a trigger tune, this will cost extra. Any prices not listed, you’ll need to call or e-mail the tuner you’ve targeted.

Website:

Reputation:

Remember that a HW kit from Beeman direct costs about $45 retail. With JM springs, you have a choice: Full power or moderate high power. Keep in mind JM introduces new types of springs from time-to-time. Make sure to check out his website before contacting the tuner.

Make sure to ask if a tuner is installing a JM spring, if it is the spring only or a kit. A kit will normally cost 3 or 4 times more than the spring alone. Ask if your old parts will be re-installed. If you are me, you’d want new parts installed, not someone to hone the ends of your spring, re-lube it, then install it back into your gun. That’s called a synergy tune.

I wanted to include two other great tuners, Randy Bimrose and Jan Kraner, but they do not have websites that promote easy comparisons. They should definitely create a system online to make life easier for all parties involved. However, I’m sure they’re doing well enough with repeat and referral customers to keep them busy on a consistent basis.

In this example, we are going to compare one of the most popular tunes: a Beeman R-9. I purposely focused on the most popular tunes to keep in simple. If you want a venom tune, for example, plug in the numbers once you find out the answers to questions in on the left side of the grid.

Tune with JM internals:

Tune Type	Paul Watt’s Basic Kit install	Paul Watt’s Basic Tune	Russ Best Synergy Tune	Russ Best Synergy Plus Tune	Ekmeister tuning option 1	Ekmister tuning option 2
Cost of “all-in” tune less trigger tune/structural repair	N/A	$125 -$145	$110	$130	N/A	$120
Purchase JM kit separately?	Yes	No	No	No	No	No
Cost of JM Kit	$69 + $7 ship = $77				$69 + $7 ship = $77
Possible top hat/breech seal costs	$10				$10
Labor to install JM kit	$50	N/A	N/A	N/A	$65	N/A
Trigger adjustment included	No	No	No	No	Yes	Yes
Shipping	$30	$30	$30	$30	$30	$30

Total Cost (estimated)	$167	$155 - $175	$140	$160	$182	$150

Tune with factory internals:

If you do purchase a JM kit, then let a tuner install it, make sure to ask JM if all parts are in the kit. Sometimes the seals won’t be included, and you’ll have to order them direct from the factory.

Keep in mind various tuners span multiple headings. I attempted to keep it simple, but no matter how hard I tried many tuners are skilled in more than one area of airguns.

Vendor tuners

http://www.pomona-airguns.com/services_tunes_used_items.htm

http://www.mac1airgun.com/services.htm

http://www.airgunshop.net/index.html

http://www.gandlairguns.com/

http://www.beeman.com/sercust.htm

http://www.pilkguns.com

Non-vender tuners

European guns:

http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/ekreally/myhomepage/business.html?mtbrand=AOL_US

http://www.airgunshow.net/Bestunes.htm

http://paulwatts.netfirms.com/

Ken Reeves: Ken's Airsports 419-837-6459

Jan Kraner: jan@jsmcg.com; Janfkraner@aol.com

10M guns:

Randy Bimrose: barrelbender@earthlink.net

http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/Rapids/1691/slade1.html

PCP’s:

Allen Zasadny.: 847-838-0187. To my knowledge he tunes careers and Rapids. Considered by many to be the best tuner of PCP guns.

42678 N. Poplar Ave.
Antioch, Il 60002

Gas rams:

http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/Rapids/1691/slade1.html

Chinese:

http://www.charliedatuna.com

Domestic Guns: Crosman, daisy, Benjamin, Sheridan, etc.

http://www.airgunshop.net/index.html

http://www.daisyrepair.com/

http://home.att.net/~jjaxelrod/airarms.html

Chet Pauls: c.pauls@attbi.com

Co2

http://members.cox.net/co2une/index.html

Home Tuning

Is it worth the time and energy to perform a home tune? It comes down to time and cost. For professional tools, you are going to spend hundreds for initial setup. Spring compressor, punches, pins, screwdrivers, etc. You will also need the proper knowledge to do said tune. How long will it take you to figure out to take apart, hone and lube in the proper places, and put your gun back together? For example, a professional airgunsmith can rebuild an R-9 in one hour. With a trigger job, and additional 15 to 30 minutes.

2006-03-06T14:02:00.000-08:00

Airgun Scope Buying Guide

This guide is about finding the best price on a scope for your airgun needs. It does not go into details about clarity, warranties, and the like. Your best sources for these kinds of questions are to study scope specifications, visit manufacturer’s websites, and ask in airgun forums. Compare and contrast the specs to suit your needs.

When the same product is available from several sources, that product becomes a commodity.
Fundamentally, the only way to differentiate between suppliers of a commodity is price. You compete the same way you would compete in any commodity-based market. As Sam Walton said, “Why should you pay for someone else’s inefficiency”?

However, vendors realize this. When the commodities are the same, but one is cheaper, the competitor must differentiate himself by adding value. The usual way of adding value is to offer a service element on top of the commodity product. Therefore, you have to weigh other factors when you purchase from an airgun dealer. I have deliberately left out online vendors who do not post their prices. Good chances their prices aren’t any better than the ones posted. Further, you’ll cut down on the chitchat element to focus on what matters.

A great place to start is the straightshooters (SS) airgun scope-buying guide. This is where you’ll pick the correct scope for your needs, and acquire the cat # for the model you’re targeting for purchase. The cat # is the key, as you’ll be able to reference it with all other vendors.

http://straightshooters.com/navagationpages/scopetogunfitgrid.html

I must warn you that straightshooters isn’t competitive when it comes to scopes. Their prices on airguns are very competitive, but their scopes are a rip-off. Don’t try haggling with them either. They won’t budge so don’t waste your time. For as long as they ignore it, the competition continues to grow in their ability to outperform them.

I must also mention that the SS scope buying guide doesn’t offer all the airgun rated scopes available. Burris, for example, makes top quality optics that not offered by SS. I have the R/A and mini series. They are airgun rated, and focus down to seven yards.

http://www.burrisoptics.com

If you want a scope that is not mentioned above and not sure if it will withstand the recoil of your gun, post a question on the fun supply’s (or “yellow”) airgun forum:

http://www.network54.com/Forum/79537

You’re objective is to pick the lowest price among three vendors you’ve identified.

In my experience, D & R offers the absolute lowest price most of the time when it comes to high-end optics. Cut to the chase and visit their site at:

http://209.35.233.21/miva/merchant.mv

When you are certain you are going to buy the intended scope, you’ll need to get the complete purchase price of the scope including shipping and tax (if applicable). Perform an ad-hoc order (add scope to cart and proceed until you discover the shipping – then cancel the order).

E-mail D & R for quote + shipping. If you click on the link the price will be shown (as of this writing).

You will then proceed to SWFA for price matching:

http://www.swfa.com

SWFA price matching guidelines:

http://www.riflescopes.com/about.asp

I recommend you call SWFA for two reasons:

1. Price matching via e-mail takes two or more days for a response

2. They take you seriously on the phone

I e-mailed price matching for three Bushnell 5-15x40mm mil-dot legends, and this was the response from Stephanie at reception@swfa.com She didn’t even realize the fact that D & R sells three or more of these scopes @ $148.73, so this quote was a waste of time for the both of us:

----------------------

This is the price that we have on the item 755154m at D&R sports
$159.85 and if we do match there price we can not send you the promotion
deal that Bushnell has right now for the back pack unless they show it
on there web sight and we did not see it. So the price we would be able
to match if approved is $159.85.

LEGEND 5-15 X 40 MIL DOT MATTE

Quantity in Basket: 1
Code: BSN755154M
Price: $159.85

Shipping Weight: 3.00 pounds

Quantity:

BUSHNELL 100% WATERPROOF/FOGPROOF, FAST-FOCUS, ADJUSTABLE OBJECTIVE LENS
AND A WIDE RANGE OF ZOOM MAGNIFICATION.
3 or more at 148.73

Product name: LEGEND 5-15 X 40 MIL DOT MATTE
Model #: 755154M
Stock #: 755154M
Price: $169.95
Competitor: D & R Sports (will be ordering 3)
Competitor stock #: BSN755154M
Competitor price: $148.73
Competitor shipping: $12.06

Verify SWFA’s price match to the next lowest competitor. Once you confirmed SWFA’s price is lower (even if the price is less than two dollars), the last step is to purchase the scope from them. SWFA stands behind their word, and will honor the price match, even if it is verbal. They offer quick and reliable shipping.

Other related scope vendor links you might find useful. Some venders below sell various lines of scopes that span multiple headings.

Swift scopes:

http://www.eabco.com/Swift01.htm

http://www.natchezss.com/

http://www.airhog.com/swift_scopes.htm

http://www.bearbasin.com

Burris:

http://www.midwayusa.com

Garretson's Sports at 970-353-8068: These guys are in Greeley, CO right down the road from Burris. No website that I know of, but they take phone orders and will ship stuff to you. They seem to have a real close relationship with Burris, and often have sweet deals on Burris blems and other specials. If they have to order something special for you from Buris, it'll take no time at all for them to get it.

Bushnell:

http://www.ultout.com/bushnell-optics.htm

http://www.durhamoutdoorsupply.com/

Nikko Sterling:

http://www.legacysports.com/product/

http://www.districorp.ca/English/nikko.htm

http://www.airgunsofarizona.com/NikkoSterling.html

Night Vision:

Nightforce USNV Model 143:

straightshooters.com/accessor/usnv143.html

cheaper alternative: http://www.nightoptics.com

Misc.:

http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/ctd/default.asp

http://www.tjgeneralstore.com/airgun1.htm

http://www.compasseco.com/catalog/optics.html

http://www.kieslersonline.com/index.asp

http://www.amback.com

http://www.ontargetsportsonline.com

http://store.1stopbbgun.com/index.html

http://www.aspitactical.com/

http://www.action-direct.com/

http://www.atigunstocks.com/

Manufacture websites:

http://www.leapers.com

http://www.hawkeoptics.com

http://www.sightron.com

http://www.burrisoptics.com

http://www.nikkostirling.com/

http://www.bsaoptics.com/

Used airgun list:

http://www.pyramydair.com/cgi-bin/browse.pl?mode=USED

http://www.airhog.com/demos.htm

http://www.airgunsofarizona.com/usedguns.html

http://www.mac1airgun.com/poal.htm

http://www.straightshooters.com/genmenus/mscratchanddent.html

http://www.airgunexpress.com/usedguns.htm

http://www.airgunexpress.com/rwsdemosrifles.htm

http://www.airgunexpress.com/rwsdemospistols.htm

http://www.airgunexpress.com/beemanblemsrifles.htm

http://www.airgunexpress.com/beemanblemspistols.htm

http://www.greatlakesairguns.com/used.htm

http://www.greatlakesairguns.com/specials.htm

http://www.blowgunsnw.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=BNI&Category_Code=reman

http://www.webcom.com/airguns/Used_Airguns.html

http://www.pilkguns.com/usedguns.htm

http://www.pilkguns.com/spl.htm

http://www.computer4me.com/airgunlinks/

http://www.computer4me.com/airgunlinks/airgundb_list.cfm

http://www.airguns.citymax.com/page/page/251477.htm

http://www.network54.com/Hide/Forum/79574

http://airgunbbs.com/6/ubb.x?a=frm&s=91060785&f=11460308

http://www.airguns.net/class_ad.html

http://www.beeman.com/used.htm

http://www.beeman.com.au/news.htm

http://disc.server.com/Indices/5237.html

www.network54.com/Hide/Forum/276885

http://www.aimoo.com/forum/login/login.cfm?id=344396

http://www.airguns.citymax.com/page/page/251477.htm

http://www.airgunbuyer.com/subcat.asp?cat=Secondhand

http://www.auctionarms.com/search/auctions(1).aspx?ab=12

http://gunbroker.com/auction/Browse.asp?Cat=1013

http://www.gunsamerica.com/1020/1020-random-1.htm

http://www.nealjguns.com/ss_store/FieldTargetAirRifles.html

http://www.nealjguns.com/ss_store/UsedAirRifle.html

2006-03-06T13:39:00.000-08:00

What is your airgunning horoscope?

Note: This thread is satire. I've taken the liberty to adapt these horoscopes to my bestest friends in the planet: My virtual airgun buddies.
Through ESP and my patented decision-o-meter process, the following people are mostly likely to be the sign below:

Aries – Kevin Gilbride

Taurus – Steve in NC

Gemini – Frank H

Cancer – Marc Myers

Leo – Larry Durham

Virgo – Tim McMurray

Libra – The Breeze

Scorpio – Dave G.

Sagittarius – Russ Best

Capicorn – Ken Rideout

Aquarius – thumper2

Pisces – Mad’

2006-03-03T23:53:00.000-08:00

Are you airgun tuner material? This questionaire aims to find out that answer for you! Keep in mind becoming a self-proclaimed tuner is serious business, especially in the online world. People from all over hang onto the last word you say. In a few short weeks you are a demigod. No other profession in the world comes close - a gardner perhaps.
Ready? Ponder and answer this questions with the utmost conviction. I'm deadly serious. You are now entering a whole new dimension starting right now.

Appearence

To become a tuner, you have to look the part. How many teeth have you lost in the past five years?

A. Less than five
B. More than five
C. I lost count
D. What are teeth?

How often do you bath?

A. Every other day
B. Once a week
C. When the colone doesn't hide my scent anymore
D. When someone hoses me down

What is your waist size (measured in inches)?

A. 40-46
B. 46 - 52
C. 52-60
D. 60+

Professional skills

Do you know how to polish metal?

A. Yes
B. No

Do you know how to grind rough surfaces?

A. Yes
B. No

Are you capable of mixing lubricants to make your own secret sauce?

A. Yes
B. No
C. Maybe

Did you graduate from high school?

A. Yes
B. No
C. What's that?

Ailments (Check all that apply)

A. Hemmoroids
B. Cough then pee on yourself
C. Fart then poo in your pants
D. Dyslexia
E. High blood pressure

Dependencies

Do you current take (Check all that apply):

A. Viagra
B. Vitamin P (Prozac)
C. Zoloft
D. Lithium
E. Paxil

More to come...

2006-03-03T20:43:00.000-08:00

It's no surprise that Yellow forum moderators have serious mental issues. Have you ever noticed that the character named Steve in CT always locks a thread when it comes to discussing a forum policy on yellowforum.com? Why can't people provide input on this topic? Possible reasons are:

1. Steve likes the power of running a message board since he has none at his day job.
2. His wife watches his every move online and doesn't condone intellectual debate.
3. He doesn't know what he is doing.

I've also heard there are "silent" moderators who have admin powers to delete what they see fit. Is this topic so heated that he can't handle the posters, virtually overthrowing him and the other forum admins off the board?

The silent moderators of this board are:

1. Steve in NC - Previously banned, but now an authority on technical infomation.
2. Theodore Summers - Offended by pretty much everything that is posted. Rumor has it he wore out the delete key on his previous keyboard.
3. Rick Douglas - Not 100% confident that he is one, but damn close.

Runners up - Basically all these people kiss Steve's ass, but not enough to warrant admin status:

1. Don Matzeder - Has referenced moving threads to the OT forum, and deleting my posts.
2. Miller - Is this the guy who won the nationals and think he's hot shit?
3. Harvey - Created the green forum after a falling out with Steve. The place sucked, Harvey shut it down, and now Steve and Harvey are buds.

I like the forum owner in the signature when Steve posts. Due to your heightened awareness, maybe there is a network 54 function where you can put a halo around what you say as well? I'll bet you'll look into it after reading this.

Give it up, as the forum is named after another person anyway. You'll never be as good as James - ever.

The funniest part about all of this is Steve asked what rules bothered me after I posted here. Talking about living your life by double standards. Good going, you just increased your credibility by 100 points on the board. Congradulations!