Authority to the Airgunning World

Where instigating argumentative debates and stepping on egos are the rule.

Monday, March 06, 2006

Barrel Changing steps:

1) Carefully study tension on barrel cocking linkage. You’ll have to set this tension again when installing the new barrel. Do not skip this step, or you’ll be sorry if this is your first time changing break barrels. If you skip this step, and you have a similar type rifle, you can study the pivot tension on that gun.

2) Remove the barrel pivot bolt.

3) Remove the lock nut on the barrel pivot bolt.

4) Cock the rifle.

5) Remove the barrel pivot bolt.

6) Inset a punch or similar item (screwdriver, etc. – make sure diameter of item is slightly smaller than barrel pivot hole – minimal “play”) to replace the barrel pivot bolt.

7) Uncock the rifle.

8) Remove the barrel.

9) Deburr barrel pivot spacers. One item to do this job is a Scotch-Brite Light Deburring Wheel, 8 in x 1 in x 3 in. found here: . If you are tuning guns, this item is essential.

10) Use Jim Maccari (JM) velocity tar, abbey gunlube SM50, or similar moly paste on cocking linkage. E-mail randy bimrose to purchase SM50: . I do not know of another vendor who sells SM50 in the U.S. JM sells velocity tar at: under the lubricants link.

11) Apply JM’s velocity tar, SM50, or similar moly paste to both sides of pivot spacers.

12) Holding pivot spacers into place, install the new barrel.

13) Lube barrel detent with velocity tar, SM50, or similar moly paste.

14) Insert the punch or similar item into the barrel pivot hole (see step 6), and cock the rifle.

15) Install the barrel pivot bolt and adjust to proper tension. The barrel shouldn’t fall by itself. Refer to step 1.

16) Uncock the rifle.

17) Install the lock nut.

18) Go sight in the rifle with the new barrel.

Additional notes:

#2 is wrong. Maybe that should be remove stock.
I don't know who's procedure this is but if your shims are junk you pitch them and replace. They can start to ball up and make a huge mess if they are thrashed.


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