Authority to the Airgunning World

Where instigating argumentative debates and stepping on egos are the rule.

Thursday, March 30, 2006

Ass kissing 101 on the airgun boards. Here is a prime example. Warning: This thread is extra sappy:

Are you kidding me?

It actually hurt me to read this. I can only think the poster is gay. No one in their right mind would post something like this unless they have other thoughts of the mark in their head. You people make me sick!

This guy thinks he has a Van Gough Airgun? This guy doesn't know it, but the USFT has been nominated for the ugliest airgun in the universe award. It reminds me of something from under the sink:

You be the judge. I can't handle this post any longer.

Wednesday, March 29, 2006

Who created the term, "darkside" for PCP airguns? I would think one would be stepping down to a cheaper airgun, possibly an airgun that is illegal in some areas. The meaning on forums is someone is switching from a co2 or spring gun to a precharged one. What a stupid name and idea to use a PCP gun. We all know it came from some lonely airgunner who watched Star Wars a thousand times, and had a crazy idea to somehow apply it to PCP guns. The scary part about it is the idea caught on. Give yourself a pat on the back for being associated with people who have an IQ of 70.

Monday, March 27, 2006

With respect to break barrel spring guns (HW guns in particular) the proper tension level should allow the barrel to maintain any position along it range of motion once the rifle is cocked.

Too little tension and the gun won't group. Too much and you'll simply be adding wear on the barrel assembly and bushings.
Be sure to use a screwdriver that is a full and tight fit in the slot.

Once you've tensioned the barrel pivot screw to a level you feel is correct (do this with the breech exposed to relieve any additional tension on the assembly), cock the gun. Position the barrel mid-way in its cocking cycle. The barrel should maintain its position, yet be easily moved again with a moderate tap of your hand.

Test the tension level by tapping the barrel both upward and down. The barrel should never "fall" via gravity when tapped, but simply moved a short distance by the force of the impact. It should then maintain its position until you apply force again to complete the cocking cycle.

At the Beeman factory they would routinely remove the stock and secure the rifle in a padded vice. This obviously makes the job easier and safer for both the rifle and the would-be tech.

However, once the pivot screw is tensioned to the level you feel is required, remove the action and test the pivot tension as I described previously. (Unless you have enough clearance around your vice to test the pivot tension while the gun is still secured.)

Ever notice how common it is for the breech shims fitted to HW guns to gall and tear up the breech jaws on stock HW guns? I know HW even feels the tension should be set the way you describe, but it’s too tight!

Tension the barrel pivot screw, then backed off 1/8 turn on the nut to allow the barrel to fall quite freely. Some people have reported they got really good accuracy with this method. This level of clamping is probably hundreds of psi less on the breech shims, allowing better lube movement and reducing wear.

Another way is to tension the screw that you feel is required, then back off 1/4 turn. Make sure the pivot screw doesn’t turn at the same time. There are some guns that the barrel cannot fall freely. These guns often have a piston liner, and a separate cocking foot or plate that imparts their own level of friction to the cocking process, independent of the pivot tension. Examples are the R-9, 10,11 and R-1.

According to the beeman catalog the barrel tension should be just tight enough for the barrel to stay motionless at any location thru its return of the cocking stroke if let go.

The tension on the barrel should be just enough to hold the weight of the barrel motionless at any point along the return arc of the cocking stroke.

"The tension on the barrel should be enough to hold the weight of the barrel motionless at any point along the return arc of the cocking stroke".

"Motionless" means "gently so", not 'hard locked' at that point in the arc of travel. The catalog doesn't exactly spell that out.

That will take care of most of them, but occasionally a particular airgun is a little picky about that setting. Once set as described, if groups are not ideally tight and all else fails, try a little tighter or a little looser on the barrel pivot bolt. I've seen it do the trick many times--suddenly groups tighten up nicely.

Wednesday, March 22, 2006

Who made up the word hold sensitivity? A self proclaimed airgun goo-roo attempts to make sense of it all in his 7th grade essay found here:

The most important question is, "What is hold sensitivity"? However, Russ never addresses the issue. The only hint of an explanation is, "not what we'd call hold sensitive". What is he talking about?

I like how the airgun gods have coined their own term to the way of holding the gun. The truth is that hold has been around as long as the guns. You didn't create anything people.

Generalities abound such as, "minimal contact", "don't GRIP the forestock", and "pull-in pressure".

My favorite is him trying to sell the idea of a tune will reduce this terrible hold sensivitity problem without telling people what it actually is.

The fact is all hand held weapons have many problems, with a majority being the shooter. Another myth busted! You may now kneel to me.

Monday, March 20, 2006

Want to become an airgun god? Follow these simple yet effective rules to bring you to the airgunning elite circle within months, not years.

1. Talk about tuning. Just bring up that you dabble in machining. Lie and talk about custom spring guides. That's a hot button on the forums. People take your word for it, and will put you on a pedestal in no time.

2. Use capital letters when you want to emphasize or stress importance. Example: You should of seen my FAT wife shoot the Talon. Her SWEATY pits covered HALF the rifle.

3. Name drop other airgun gods, and that you hang with them. There are plenty of self-proclaimed airgun gods running around.

Freedom of speech regarding dealers and tuners on airgun message boards is a joke. Why is it universally accepted with online airgun message boards not to discuss experiences with a particular person or business? It's common knowledge that people will have good and bad experiences. Why not tolerate them, if in fact they are true? The yellow forum goes out of their way to state the oppression:

Straightshooters does the same thing. In fact I was banned for it on both the Straighshooters and Bull Durham sites! Russ Best knew he cut corners, and I called him on it. Reality caught up with him and pulling the wool over customer's eyes would only last so long. In the end, he had to get a job and fold up the tuning business. I suppose the apple doesn't fall far from the tree, as he teamed up with another crook named Wayne at addictive airgunning. This low life had the nerve to automatically sign people up for another year of the online subscription, and not deliver the goods. On top of that, he posted the business for sale while not refunding subscribers money! I loved it when devote followers tried defending the poor sap by saying, "It was a new venture - consider your money a learning experience". I think there were hundreds of subscribers who got taken. I believe someone figured out the dollar amount. Just be aware these moderators are far from professionals when it comes to doing the right thing. At least they could look into a diplomatic review system like:

Tuesday, March 14, 2006

Airgun forums in order of censorship and moderation:

1. Bull Durham - The worst of the worst. Larry Durham is a bitter 'ol man that will ban you if you even disagree with him. He has brought the masses such hillbilly airguns such as the LD pistol and simple simon rifle. If you want to kiss ass, this is the ultimate place to hang out. The forum basically revolves around Larry and Mac1 airguns.

Go to the yellow forum, and look at the drop down menu. The URL is too long to be posted here.

2. Straightshooters - You better not talk about nor provide links to the competition. Remember, these 'ol guys think this thing called the information superhighway is crazy! Kevin is known to fly off the handle on and offline, so watch out for some fireworks if he doesn't get his meds for the day. The intelligence of this board is almost on par with diamonds.

3. Yellow forum - Ever since James Kitching passed away, Steve in CT was handed over the keys. He has made it his blog of sorts, although he won't admit it. He has a hard time managing it, so a number of other airgun nuts have joined him in the crusade of endless talking about the same topics over and over again.

4. Diamonds - Man, this place is a true tard farm. It never ceases to amaze me how stupid the posts are here.

5. Airgun underground - Initially ran by James Maccari, this forum has gone through many changes since it changed hands. It was handed over to Jeff E., a lonesome troublemaker who created problems throughout the entire community. In the end, he was too emotionally unstable for such an endeavor, and handed it over to another individual. You might see one post every few weeks on this board. If you are contemplating suicide, you'll really want to finish off the deed after visiting this forum for 15 minutes.

Saturday, March 11, 2006

This recently acquired Theoben SLR 88 carbine was quite a surprise when I took it to the local range. What sold me on this gun is the the limited production run, vintage stock and trigger, and the unique carbine length. The "full length" version of the SLR is already compact, but this one has a couple more inches taken off the overall package. It orginally came with a simmons scope, but that was quickly replaced with a Leupold 3-9x33 EFR. The previous owner told me only 10 of these were ever made. I took his word since he was a former airgun dealer. With such a short barrel, I wasn't expecting stellar groups with this gun. Was I wrong. The previous owner also included five clips. They just so happened to have Crosman Premiers already loaded. I figured why not boresight with them. Unfortunately for me, I didn't bring CP's that day, as they grouped the best in this gun. These are five shot groups at 25 yards, using 9x magnification. I really was stunned at the performance, as none of my RA-800's have acheived such accuracy. I did try FTS's, but they didn't group as well. This is the first time CP's have been the first choice in any of my springers.

Thursday, March 09, 2006

Reasons why not to use USPS to ship your airgun or related accessories:

1. Can't track the shipment
2. Employees have no idea were the package is at any given time
3. Costs significantly more for packages over 10 lbs.

I've had it with this carrier. Why are the employees so incompetent with every aspect of the business? It seems like every question you have ends with, "I don't know"?

This is nothing new. I have observed this behavior for as long as I can remember; at least 20 years.

I finally realized what was going on when I saw the application. It went something like this:

1. If you know how to read and write, what is the highest grade that you completed?

A. 4th grade
B. 5rd grade
C. 6th grade
D. 7th grade

2. If you could rate your troubleshooting ability on a scale from 1 to 10, what would it be?

A. 0
B. 1
C. 2
D. 3

Note: If you have any trace of troubleshooting ability, you will NOT be considered for any position.

I recently wanted to pick up a Leupold scope that I missed during normal scheduled delivery. When I gave the postal worker the pickup slip at the station, she took 10 minutes then came back to the window. She said she couldn't find it. How can you not find a shipment with a tracking # that is insured? I felt like saying, "Please direct me to one individual here that is not inbred".

She then gave me a phone # to call. After two hours I received a call back saying the package was at the station. The question is, "Why would you trust a carrier shipping your expensive items when they don't have a system in place"? I love the tracking #'s. If you try to track it, the results will always be "In transit". Problem is, no one knows where the shipment is at any given time, including ALL workers at USPS (not most).

At least FedEx and UPS have a true tracking system you can monitor. I suppose if you work for a government entity that prohibits competition, there is no incentive to improve anyway.

Moral of the story: Don't use this crummy service if you have anything valuable!

Monday, March 06, 2006

Barrel Changing steps:

1) Carefully study tension on barrel cocking linkage. You’ll have to set this tension again when installing the new barrel. Do not skip this step, or you’ll be sorry if this is your first time changing break barrels. If you skip this step, and you have a similar type rifle, you can study the pivot tension on that gun.

2) Remove the barrel pivot bolt.

3) Remove the lock nut on the barrel pivot bolt.

4) Cock the rifle.

5) Remove the barrel pivot bolt.

6) Inset a punch or similar item (screwdriver, etc. – make sure diameter of item is slightly smaller than barrel pivot hole – minimal “play”) to replace the barrel pivot bolt.

7) Uncock the rifle.

8) Remove the barrel.

9) Deburr barrel pivot spacers. One item to do this job is a Scotch-Brite Light Deburring Wheel, 8 in x 1 in x 3 in. found here: . If you are tuning guns, this item is essential.

10) Use Jim Maccari (JM) velocity tar, abbey gunlube SM50, or similar moly paste on cocking linkage. E-mail randy bimrose to purchase SM50: . I do not know of another vendor who sells SM50 in the U.S. JM sells velocity tar at: under the lubricants link.

11) Apply JM’s velocity tar, SM50, or similar moly paste to both sides of pivot spacers.

12) Holding pivot spacers into place, install the new barrel.

13) Lube barrel detent with velocity tar, SM50, or similar moly paste.

14) Insert the punch or similar item into the barrel pivot hole (see step 6), and cock the rifle.

15) Install the barrel pivot bolt and adjust to proper tension. The barrel shouldn’t fall by itself. Refer to step 1.

16) Uncock the rifle.

17) Install the lock nut.

18) Go sight in the rifle with the new barrel.

Additional notes:

#2 is wrong. Maybe that should be remove stock.
I don't know who's procedure this is but if your shims are junk you pitch them and replace. They can start to ball up and make a huge mess if they are thrashed.

Airgun Tuning Buying Guide

This guide intends to inform the reader about professional airgun tuners in the marketplace. Its purpose is to provide questions to ask yourself before deciding to tune your airgun, a brief background in tunes, and vendors who offer tuning parts if you decide to go the DIY route.

In Internet airgun message boards, you will tend to see airgun tuners attaining celebrity status. Do not be fooled by this “elevated level” of authority. The tuning business is just like any other business. You need them and they need you. There is no divine appointment to this career path (unless you like to idolize machinist work). If you frequent these message boards, you’d think these tuners were national treasures.

Phase I: Qualify Needs

You have to decide if a tune is necessary. What expectations would you have for a tune? What would make it "worth it" to you? More power? Smoother? What would make you happy, and think it was worth the money? This URL is very helpful in asking these questions:

Custom spring guides: So many Internet posters talk about custom spring guides, but I don’t think they actually know what they are talking about. For some unknown reason, airgun tuners use buzzwords such as “custom spring guides”, “proprietary lubes”, and “hold sensitivity”. Try to omit them from your vocabulary. They will only get you nowhere.

For example, someone at Venom has actually taken the time to measure the inside of the R1/HW 80, which make an almost perfect fit in almost any one of these production guns. For example, JM sells “custom” kits. In reality, they are “custom” drop-in parts. Obviously, the term “custom” is often misleading in differentiating one tune from another.

Phase II: Cost Justify

Keep in mind the average tune job today is over a $125. Would you overhaul your car’s brand new engine off the showroom floor? I have a hard time justifying a tune when the gun is new, but some people insist on a tuned gun right from the start. From my experience, accuracy is negligible between an untuned and tuned gun. It’s the increased smoothness in the firing cycle that really matters (to me, at least).

Phase III: What is the risk of buying, or not buying?

Tuning is usually related to smoothing the firing cycle and sometimes increasing power output. Few tuners do a before and after accuracy test on the guns, and most will willingly tune just the action. In most cases, if you send an innaccurate gun for a tune, it will usually come back a smoother firing, innaccurate gun. It’s rare to see a gun that exhibits poor accuracy that is assembled correctly (screws tight, etc) become an accurate rifle after tuning. Although inherit accuracy can be affected to a degree by honing, etc, accuracy is most affected by the barrel and trigger. These two components must be attended to first if they are not up to production specifications.

If you want to see a comprehensive “real world” untuned vs. tuned R1, purchase the Beeman R1 Supermagnum Air Rifle book by Tom Gaylord. This book also compares tune kits as well. A must have book if you are interested in airgun tuning performance. At the time of the writing they are hard to come by. To my knowledge, your best chance of acquiring one is through Doug Law at

Summary of book:

Another possible route:

to quickly search the net, copy/paste the ISBN (B0006F5BXA) into your favorite search engine, or at

If you want to understand the mechanics of a spring gun in great detail, the best book to date is Cardew’s, “From Trigger to Target” available from airgun express.

The best book on hold, stance, and trigger techniques is undoubtably the ways of the rifle. Ways of the Rifle is available from either:

Book overview:

If you decided a tune is for you, the following links will send you in the right direction.

A great place to visit up-to-date tuning links is (or at least used to be):

Note: Jim Maccari (JM) doesn’t perform tunes. He has done this in the past, but has ceased this service since 2002. However, his spring kits are the foundation of many tunes in the market today. If you have the right tools, know how, and determination, you can do it yourself.

Pricing out a Tune Job

It is a good idea to compare a few tunes side-by-side. This research will become especially beneficial if you have a large collection of spring guns. Since this industry doesn’t change rapidly, you can refer to your initial research time and time again for many years to brush up when you’re ready to send another gun for a tune. Why research? Because research will reveal the good, the bad, and the ugly things you need to know about tunes before you buy.

As far as minor options, such as types of lubes, custom spring guides, etc., don’t get too hung up on these features with professional tuners. You’ll only be making life very difficult for yourself when you start to shop. Just consider those minor options as window dressings. Don’t let window dressings become a deciding factor in your purchase. Remember, how well your gun has been cared for is what really decides how long it will last.

Asking around is a good way to get an honest opinion. People aren’t afraid to tell you their likes or dislikes about a tune. Try the honest approach: “I’m looking into getting a tune on my , have you had any problem with yours”? Obviously, the opinion of someone who has owned a tuned gun a few years holds more credit than the opinion of someone who’s had the same tuned gun just a few months. Another good question to ask is, ”Would you get another tune from ”?

Questions to ask the tuner on the phone or e-mail:

1. How long does this type of tune take you?

2. Will you be replacing the mainspring, or using the existing one?

3. What separates you from the rest of the tuners?

4. How many years have you been tuning professionally?

5. Are you negotiable in you price? How about a quantity discount if I send you two or more guns? It never hurts to ask. The worst thing that could happen is that they say no.

Whether you’ve just started looking or have been looking, don’t go tune shopping without a good excuse for a quick escape.

1. I just started looking, and I want to see what else is around before I make any decisions.

2. I have two other options, and I want to check those out before I make any decisions.

However, have the decency to tell them you’re not interested when you’re really not. If you don’t want to hurt their feelings, you can say:

1. You know, I really wanted a lazaglide tune, or a gas ram. Whatever they offer, you wanted the opposite.

2. It doesn’t sound like what I want. I’m going to have to pass.

3. I have to work out some finances before can commit.

There are basically three types of tunes in the market. They consist of various components depending on brand and model of gun. For example, a spring, top hat, guide, and breech seal are collectively known as a kit when it comes to an R-1:

1. Factory kit

2. Maccari kit

3. Venom kit

Your first step is to figure out how much these kits cost retail. For example, if you are tuning a Beeman gun using factory parts go to:

Call their 800 number, and ask how much a replacement spring, guide, piston seal, and breech seal cost. From what I remember the entire HW kit cost around $45.

If you want use Maccari internals, go to:

simply look up the parts or kits that match your gun.

For Venom internals, go to Mac1:

I recommend Maccari’s internals over all others due to quality and performance. You will be hard pressed for more value from a tune kit.

As mentioned before, the R1 supermagnum book by Tom Gaylord compares all of these tunes back-to-back. The comparison is fairly accurate to this day.

4. After you have acquired and researched the tune kit you’d like to install in your gun, it is now time to do research on the tuners. First step is to find out the prices of their tunes on their websites. For example, Russ Best charges $130 for a JM kit installed in your gun. This price does not include shipping both ways. This will typically cost $30 UPS ground. If you want a trigger tune, this will cost extra. Any prices not listed, you’ll need to call or e-mail the tuner you’ve targeted.



Remember that a HW kit from Beeman direct costs about $45 retail. With JM springs, you have a choice: Full power or moderate high power. Keep in mind JM introduces new types of springs from time-to-time. Make sure to check out his website before contacting the tuner.

Make sure to ask if a tuner is installing a JM spring, if it is the spring only or a kit. A kit will normally cost 3 or 4 times more than the spring alone. Ask if your old parts will be re-installed. If you are me, you’d want new parts installed, not someone to hone the ends of your spring, re-lube it, then install it back into your gun. That’s called a synergy tune.

I wanted to include two other great tuners, Randy Bimrose and Jan Kraner, but they do not have websites that promote easy comparisons. They should definitely create a system online to make life easier for all parties involved. However, I’m sure they’re doing well enough with repeat and referral customers to keep them busy on a consistent basis.

In this example, we are going to compare one of the most popular tunes: a Beeman R-9. I purposely focused on the most popular tunes to keep in simple. If you want a venom tune, for example, plug in the numbers once you find out the answers to questions in on the left side of the grid.

Tune with JM internals:

Tune Type

Paul Watt’s Basic Kit install

Paul Watt’s Basic Tune

Russ Best Synergy Tune

Russ Best Synergy Plus Tune

Ekmeister tuning option 1

Ekmister tuning option 2

Cost of “all-in” tune less trigger tune/structural repair


$125 -$145





Purchase JM kit separately?







Cost of JM Kit

$69 + $7 ship = $77

$69 + $7 ship = $77

Possible top hat/breech seal costs



Labor to install JM kit







Trigger adjustment included














Total Cost (estimated)


$155 - $175





Tune with factory internals:

If you do purchase a JM kit, then let a tuner install it, make sure to ask JM if all parts are in the kit. Sometimes the seals won’t be included, and you’ll have to order them direct from the factory.

Keep in mind various tuners span multiple headings. I attempted to keep it simple, but no matter how hard I tried many tuners are skilled in more than one area of airguns.

Vendor tuners

Non-vender tuners

European guns:

Ken Reeves: Ken's Airsports 419-837-6459

Jan Kraner:;

10M guns:

Randy Bimrose:


Allen Zasadny.: 847-838-0187. To my knowledge he tunes careers and Rapids. Considered by many to be the best tuner of PCP guns.

42678 N. Poplar Ave.
Antioch, Il 60002

Gas rams:


Domestic Guns: Crosman, daisy, Benjamin, Sheridan, etc.

Chet Pauls:


Home Tuning

Is it worth the time and energy to perform a home tune? It comes down to time and cost. For professional tools, you are going to spend hundreds for initial setup. Spring compressor, punches, pins, screwdrivers, etc. You will also need the proper knowledge to do said tune. How long will it take you to figure out to take apart, hone and lube in the proper places, and put your gun back together? For example, a professional airgunsmith can rebuild an R-9 in one hour. With a trigger job, and additional 15 to 30 minutes.

Airgun Scope Buying Guide

This guide is about finding the best price on a scope for your airgun needs. It does not go into details about clarity, warranties, and the like. Your best sources for these kinds of questions are to study scope specifications, visit manufacturer’s websites, and ask in airgun forums. Compare and contrast the specs to suit your needs.

When the same product is available from several sources, that product becomes a commodity.
Fundamentally, the only way to differentiate between suppliers of a commodity is price. You compete the same way you would compete in any commodity-based market. As Sam Walton said, “Why should you pay for someone else’s inefficiency”?

However, vendors realize this. When the commodities are the same, but one is cheaper, the competitor must differentiate himself by adding value. The usual way of adding value is to offer a service element on top of the commodity product. Therefore, you have to weigh other factors when you purchase from an airgun dealer. I have deliberately left out online vendors who do not post their prices. Good chances their prices aren’t any better than the ones posted. Further, you’ll cut down on the chitchat element to focus on what matters.

A great place to start is the straightshooters (SS) airgun scope-buying guide. This is where you’ll pick the correct scope for your needs, and acquire the cat # for the model you’re targeting for purchase. The cat # is the key, as you’ll be able to reference it with all other vendors.

I must warn you that straightshooters isn’t competitive when it comes to scopes. Their prices on airguns are very competitive, but their scopes are a rip-off. Don’t try haggling with them either. They won’t budge so don’t waste your time. For as long as they ignore it, the competition continues to grow in their ability to outperform them.

I must also mention that the SS scope buying guide doesn’t offer all the airgun rated scopes available. Burris, for example, makes top quality optics that not offered by SS. I have the R/A and mini series. They are airgun rated, and focus down to seven yards.

If you want a scope that is not mentioned above and not sure if it will withstand the recoil of your gun, post a question on the fun supply’s (or “yellow”) airgun forum:

You’re objective is to pick the lowest price among three vendors you’ve identified.

In my experience, D & R offers the absolute lowest price most of the time when it comes to high-end optics. Cut to the chase and visit their site at:

When you are certain you are going to buy the intended scope, you’ll need to get the complete purchase price of the scope including shipping and tax (if applicable). Perform an ad-hoc order (add scope to cart and proceed until you discover the shipping – then cancel the order).

E-mail D & R for quote + shipping. If you click on the link the price will be shown (as of this writing).

You will then proceed to SWFA for price matching:

SWFA price matching guidelines:

I recommend you call SWFA for two reasons:

1. Price matching via e-mail takes two or more days for a response

2. They take you seriously on the phone

I e-mailed price matching for three Bushnell 5-15x40mm mil-dot legends, and this was the response from Stephanie at She didn’t even realize the fact that D & R sells three or more of these scopes @ $148.73, so this quote was a waste of time for the both of us:


This is the price that we have on the item 755154m at D&R sports
$159.85 and if we do match there price we can not send you the promotion
deal that Bushnell has right now for the back pack unless they show it
on there web sight and we did not see it. So the price we would be able
to match if approved is $159.85.


Quantity in Basket: 1
Code: BSN755154M
Price: $159.85

Shipping Weight: 3.00 pounds


3 or more at 148.73

Product name: LEGEND 5-15 X 40 MIL DOT MATTE
Model #: 755154M
Stock #: 755154M
Price: $169.95
Competitor: D & R Sports (will be ordering 3)
Competitor stock #: BSN755154M
Competitor price: $148.73
Competitor shipping: $12.06

Verify SWFA’s price match to the next lowest competitor. Once you confirmed SWFA’s price is lower (even if the price is less than two dollars), the last step is to purchase the scope from them. SWFA stands behind their word, and will honor the price match, even if it is verbal. They offer quick and reliable shipping.

Other related scope vendor links you might find useful. Some venders below sell various lines of scopes that span multiple headings.

Swift scopes:


Garretson's Sports at 970-353-8068: These guys are in Greeley, CO right down the road from Burris. No website that I know of, but they take phone orders and will ship stuff to you. They seem to have a real close relationship with Burris, and often have sweet deals on Burris blems and other specials. If they have to order something special for you from Buris, it'll take no time at all for them to get it.


Nikko Sterling:

Night Vision:

Nightforce USNV Model 143:

cheaper alternative:


Manufacture websites:

Used airgun list: